Cube3 Feed Tube Repair Jigs Printhead and Feed Assembly

Cube3 Feed Tube Repair Jigs Printhead and Feed Assembly

Description

These jigs are for the repair of both the print head and feed assembly side of the feed tube. While this was primarily designed to help owners of my open source kit replace damaged/worn tubes, it may be useful for Cube3 owners using other open source designs. The guide tube inside of every Cube3 cartridge is about 12"s of 2.0x2.8mm PTFE tubing - save this when you convert to open source as it's enough tubing to perform a lifetime of repairs for both ends of the feed assembly. If your Cube3 has a print quality issue as in pic 2 (under-extruding and brittle), it's possible the issue is a worn and/or damaged feed tube inside the print head. If you post an image to a Cube3 forum with a picture asking for help, most will recommend that you have a partial clog or "old" filament. It is possible that the issue is a partial clog but if the usual steps to correct do not work, you'll want to pull the print head apart and look inside. When I encountered this issue, most of feed tube had disintegrated. I suspect printing a considerable amount of PETG did it in. If you've run into an issue with the feed assembly, potentially caused by using autoloading print files incorrectly, then you can use the other jig to fashion up another tube for that. *If you use a chamfer bit to shape one end of the feed assembly tube, only spin it in reverse so it does not remove material. Autoloading print files are here: http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/5044-Autoloading-print-files-for-Cube3 The pictures showing how to install new tubing cannot be put into the correct order (frustrating that it won't save pic order correctly) but should be self-explanatory but I will post a YouTube video with more details. The print head is tricky but begin by seating the tip, spring and tube in one half of the print head and holding it against body then add on the other side. I find a small flat head screwdriver is handy here to tuck the spring into place. To add in the Push 2 Connect fitting, I recommend a 2mm rod to guide it into place before tightening down. A length of filament should work also if you do not have one of these (most bike wheel spokes are 2mm round).

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