LED SoundReactive Visualizer

LED SoundReactive Visualizer

Description

LED SoundReactive Soundvisualizer Video Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsIqWvjY7fY Pictures can be found at the Thing files section. There are 2 .rar files for if the Download all button dont work. First, i´m gonna say sorry for my english it´s not my first language. I used Google translator The printing Parts I made a Soundreactive LED Soundvisualizer. There are mainly 3 Parts the Top, Bottom, and the Middle Part. You can change/increase the height of the soundbar by using more of the middle parts. But remember, the higher you go, the more unstable the tower becomes. The highest I've built was 1 meter (5parts inculding bot and top) and this is holding up quite well. I made sure that most Printers can print the parts by designing them about 200mm (7,87402inch). I recommend a layer height of 0.15mm-0.2mm because the parts are very closely matched. Maybe you should print 2 parts for testing first. you have to glue the front parts together, i used superglue for this. Also you have to glue the foot and the bottom part together. DO NOT glue the backplate of the bottom part and the foot together, otherwise you won't be able to get to the leds easily. The cover plate from the foot is quite tight. You have to stretch your foot a bit (for example with your nails or a plectrum) to get it out again. Or just put them together when you're done with the electrics. The Bottom Diffusor part is at one site 0.5mm longer if it dont fit turn it around. I printed the parts with no supports it can happen that 1 or 2 printed lines hang down,if thats the case use a scalpel or a razorblade to get rid of it as shown in the picture. If you don't do that, it can happen that the parts are not flush. All parts have recesses in the foot where you can insert them. With a soldering iron you could melt the plastic slightly so that the parts stick in it, alternatively you can of course use a hot glue gun. Unfortunately, there wasn't enough space in the foot to make plug-in connections, so you have to use a soldering iron. Electric Parts Microphone: MAX9814 PowerSupply: 5V 3A USB Controller: ESP32(recommended), D1 Mini LED Strip: WS2812b 60LED/meter Software: WLED SoundReactive --> download here : https://github.com/atuline/WLED/releases?fbclid=IwAR1S7pFi9Ec0sFcMD_yYNG6xTHzRgKv-tpfj7G3MG_ChaRLtUpONR8F44k4 I recommend an ESP32 for control, you could also use a Wemos D1 Mini, but this is no longer being supported.That being said, the ESP32's processor is significantly faster. You will notice that in the effects. Microphone connections I used a Max9814 as a microphone. You have to connect gain and VDD for 40db if you want 50db connect gain and ground. Connect the OUT to VP on your ESP32 Connect VDD to 3.3V on your ESP32 Connect GROUND to GND ony your ESP32 Microphone settings in WLED Go to SOUND SETTINGS and change the analog input PIN to 36 if you connected the OUT to VP. If you connected OUT to any other PIN, type ind that number. I used a USB 5V 3A power supply. It is important that you do not supply the LEDs with power via the controller, but rather create an extra power supply. You can simply split the cable from 2 (plus and minus) into 4 (2plus, 2 minus). It can happen that an IR PIN is set for some wled versions. This is automatically set to PIN 4 and cannot be changed, if that is the case, it is best to use a different PIN, such as pin 5 or 3. Then you simply set the pin you have selected for LED outputs. I used WS2812b as LED strip. It is important that you take the 60LED per meter version because the parts are adapted to it. As software ,I used the WLED sound reactive software.You can find various videos on youtube on how to flash and install it. I also recommend separating the led stripe pro back part. The reason for this is that the LED stripes do not fit 100% and over the length of the stripes are slightly displaced in the cutouts. You can use small bridges or thin cables for this. When you stick the first led strip on the backplate, check if they are in the middle of the cutouts. starts with the top one. If necessary, cut off a little more from the end of the strips. LED Preferences in WLED (Settings) Count how much LED´s you have, in my built its 59. If you didnt made it that long like only 3 parts type in 35 and so on. If you use a 5V3A pwoer supply type in 3000mA. You got only 1.5A ? Then type in 1500mA and so on. I hope i didnt forgot anything. Ff you have any questions, feel free to write a comment, happy building and thanks for watching

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