Swissburner Direct Drive-Linear Rail version with CR Touch mount

Description

This is not great. (please read entire description, some light drilling is required and you must have a countersink bit and flat head M3 countersink bolts as well) It will only be held together by the two bottom bolts so brass inserts would be highly recommended. It isn't pretty but it isn't all that difficult to make this work either. WHY DID I MAKE THIS? I have the DirectDrive/Linear Rails version for the MicroSwiss extruder and the holes are in different places than the version that does not use linear rails. No mount existed when I posted this that would work with this extruder. I used TinkerCad to modify the STL file of a different mount that was closer. The extension on the right lines up ok but if you look closely, it isn't perfectly the same height. (though it works and it isn't that bad) You could use TinkerCAD and the thing I started with to make a better version. (wink, wink, nudge, nudge) If you do, I will print and use that. WHY DID I POST THIS MESS? It works for me. I thought about NOT posting it but it does work. I will take this down once a better solution exists. WHAT TO DO IS YOU WANT TO TRY THIS: It uses the StealthySwiss parts from Roma Aquatics. Print everything but the mount. (I used PETG) The ONLY reason I did this is because I really wanted to use the StealthySwiss with this particular MicroSwiss extruder and I could not find a mount that would work. (linear rails are a huge upgrade) I printed everything I could find and eventually did this. Also I wanted to use the CR Touch. I took a notch out for the cable but thin washers are needed since the CR touch is shorter than the BL Touch. (otherwise the nozzle will push the bed down during bed leveling and you will have very poor results on bed leveling) I filed the washers a bit on the side with burrs and used a caliper to make sure they were uniform. That is probably not necessary. NOTE: You can still use this with the BL Touch. There will just be a notch in the mount. (no washers required if you use the BL Touch) I printed in PETG with 100% infill and although the holes are very close, I had to make them slightly larger with a drill. PETG with 100% infill can handle the side of a drill bit elongating the holes and a countersink bit. (don't overdo it) I would love to make minor adjustments in Tinker CAD but I couldn't figure out how. Just realize that you will have to hold the part up, remove material, repeat until it fits nicely. Also, the two holes closest to the hotend need to be countersunk and need flat head countersunk M3 bolts. (use a countersink bit to create room so the fastener is flat against the mount) Please be careful that you do not cross thread the holes in the aluminum extruder!! I just kept elongating the holes until it threaded in straight. (I only drilled the two top holes) I would fix it if I knew any piece of CAD software better. There is another hole that is not used from the original design to the left of those holes. Just ignore this hole. (I know, this is less than ideal) It should be obvious which holes line up with your extruder if you have the linear rail/direct drive version. Additionally, I would love to add holes for the top two screws in the design. Mine is only held together by the bottom two screws. I do believe I will need brass inserts at some point to keep it together. Hopefully someone will design a better version at some point for this specific extruder.

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