Prusa i3 octoprint / raspberry pi holder with adjustable camera mount

Description

I couldn't find a raspberry pi holder / octoprint server that i liked, so i designed my own. [Project video here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80kXBwF7VbI) (It really helps my channel if you engage with the video, im also more responsive to comments / questions you youtube than I am on thingiverse): additional materials needed (you probably have some of these already): * webcam with 1/4" mount. (I used a Logitech C920): [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JH8T3S) * 3A boost/buck converter to power the pi off of the prusa power supply: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078XQ5MWR) **MAKE SURE TO ADJUST THE VOLTAGE BEFORE CONNECTING YOUR PI!!!** * loc-line / flexible camera stuff (I bought mine a while back and is no longer listed. You might be able to find it cheaper. I initially went with just one of these, but bought a second and used 1/2 of the second one to add additional length. I currently am using 25 sections of tubing): [link](https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Gooseneck-19-Section-Fusion-Session/dp/B09BZ89XKL/) * M3 bolts of various sizes, I have this kit: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071KBVZVV) * small right angle USB cable for connecting the pi to the prusa control board: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5HS7TI) * rpi heatsink. Probably unneeded, but looks cool. I also used the bolts from this in the design, so you might have to drill out a hole or widen the nut insert if you want to use bolts from the above kit): [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VWM4J4L) * spade connectors to attach the boost/buck board to the prusa PSU: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1753K2) * headers for making power wire to go from the boost/buck board to the pi: [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HVBTZ4) * wire: needed, not gonna link. * magnets (only needed if you also print the door brace) [link](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07842PSJD) _____________________________________________ STEP files are included, but contain some parts that should be hidden, couldn't figure out how to export a single body in fusion 360. _____________________________________________ useful octoprint settings and such: **Octoprint disconnects from wifi and doesn't reconnect**: ``` # edit /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf and add the following before the network={} block: ap_scan=1 autoscan=periodic:10 disable_scan_offload=1 ``` **Get camera working in octoprint** ``` # edit /boot/octopi.txt set camera="usb" set camera_usb_options="-r 1920x1080 -f 15" ``` **Disable camera auto focus / white balance / brightness stuff (needed for clean looking timelapses - go to http(s)://<your-octoprint-server>/webcam/?action=stream to get a full screen webcam view while changing settings** ``` ### install needed utility sudo apt install v4l-utils ### list settings / current values v4l2-ctl --list-ctrls-menus ### values that work well for me: # exposure ( note, exposure_auto=1 is manual, 3 is auto. this is confusing!) v4l2-ctl -c exposure_auto=1 v4l2-ctl -c exposure_auto_priority=0 v4l2-ctl -c exposure_absolute=600 v4l2-ctl -c gain=255 # focus - will take some messing with v4l2-ctl -c focus_auto=0 v4l2-ctl -c zoom_absolute=0 v4l2-ctl -c focus_absolute=65 # didn't notice a difference with this setting personally v4l2-ctl -c backlight_compensation=0 # color / image settings (don't worry if your camera goes green when you set auto=0, 3000 is a good start, higher is warmer, lower is cooler) v4l2-ctl -c white_balance_temperature_auto=0 v4l2-ctl -c white_balance_temperature=3050 v4l2-ctl -c sharpness=140 v4l2-ctl -c brightness=120 v4l2-ctl -c contrast=120 v4l2-ctl -c saturation=110 ```

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