#1 Ender 2 Pro Mods
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UPDATE 4-12-2022 I recently had the head crash into the bed and completely smash the CR-Touch on my Ender 2 Pro. (See Photo) I have removed the CR-Touch Fan Bracket from the downloads so this does not happen to anyone else. I used a Creality Based version of the Marlin Firmware and activated the CR-Touch then compiled and installed. Ya.....Um...I must have changed something without realizing it, and it caused the z axis to shoot up then slam down into the bed. I know it was my fault, but I no longer use the ABL system. I only use the electronic bed leveler from Filament Friday. You can find a link in the video he did here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=715Xop79Sus Electronic Bed Leveler (Yes, it works, I own one, and leveling goes quick with it) https://bit.ly/3rMV0Sv You do need the GCODE to use it, because the GCODE simulates a print and moves the head from point to point. GCODE and other files can be found here: https://www.chepclub.com/electronic-bed-level-tool.html I now have dual parts cooling fans on my ender 2 pro. See #3 Ender 2 Pro Mods for the files and how to make it all work. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- UPDATE 3-31-2022 9:42AM The Rotary Encoder Push Button Switch died after just a couple weeks of use. I ordered a set of 5 UXCELL Brand ones. I know this brand and have never had one fail on me. Here is the link to buy them if yours fails: ( DO NOT GET PAID FOR THIS LINK) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R8JPM6D You will need a soldering iron, solder sucker or copper braid solder remover and flux, and make sure you clean up the circuit board after with alcohol to get any residue from the solder flux off the work area. Solder in the NEW switch. Then reinstall the board. This rotary switch can only go in one way. It has 3 pins on one side and 2 on the other side. If there is any residual solder in the holes, heat and suck it out, or use pin hole hand drill with a hole matching size bit. Be careful not to damage the pads on the circuit board. Oh, and I removed that annoying little Pezo Speaker Beeper from the LCD Screen Circuit Board. Replaced it with a little blue LED. It blinks now instead of that annoying sound. I also Printed a separate NEW Control Box, with a rear leg to stand it at about a 45 degree angle. Plus I added a NEW ribbon cable so I can have the Control Box on either side of the printer, or hold it in may hands while sitting in front of my work area. Here is a Link to the cable: (I DO NOT GET PAID FOR THESE LNKS) Longer Ribbon Cable Replacement: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SR3S2W3 I have uploaded the parts files (.stl) for the NEW CONTROL BOX for the 12864Z v1.0 LCD Control Board. Use 2mm screws (2 on either side) near the base. Use a 1.5mm drill bit to drill through the case and through the back lid lip. Screws will self tap as they go in. The rotary knob will fit the UXCELL rotary switch, I am not sure if it will fit the stock switch, it might be too small a hole for a stock switch. Those files are on this Ender 2 Pro Upgrades page in the thing files section, and there are pictures of it if you scroll over to the right far enough. 4-M2x8mm screws DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE TO ATTACH LCD SCREEN BEZEL! I used 2 narrow thin strips of double sided tape. If you use SUPER GLUE, you run the risk of the fumes settling on the LCD screen and creating a white haze on it. You can add the "Gorilla-Tech" Badge if you want, or not. It is up to you. I used CA Glue to attach it near the lower left face corner on mine. Or make your own. You will need a longer cable to use this box. Longer Ribbon Cable Replacement: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SR3S2W3 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- UPDATE 3-26-2022 11:10pm Modified the probe mount and the fan mount Ender_2_Pro_CR-Touch__Fan_Bracket_BETA_V2.stl Removed old File ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [This is still a work in progress.] March 26, 2022 Remixed from a ABL Bracket design by Pakkko here on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5203637 [IF YOU ADD THIS MOUNT FOR A BL/CR TOUCH LEAVE THE Z-ENDSTOP PLUGGED IN] It allows you to remove the stock Hot End cover which limits the air flow to the Hot End Fan and the Parts cooling fan, and mount a BL/CR Touch and remount the stock hot end fan on the bracket. Or switch to Noctua Like I did and I also designed a simple Box Shell and Cover for the Hot End. It slides on over the CR-Touch and Fan bracket, and has a simple top lid. I also made some simple fan guards for it. Nothing fancy, just wanted it to be simple and functional. I added a fan mount and support for the ABL mount. I also added 2 holes in the front to pass a Hex Key Wrench straight through to tighten the mounting screws. In the picture of my X-Carriage Cover, you can see the Noctua Fan. I clipped the zip tie on the end of the wire bundle to give the Noctua Silent fan wires the ability to reach the fan's new mounting point. To mount the buck converters, I cut the draw off from the front plate. I hate drawers with things rattling around while the printer is running. This made a great space to mount them. No Remix Needed, Z-Axis Motor Mount (This will straighten the tilted Lead Screw) Make sure you loosen the Lead Screw Nut Screws a little to allow it to re-position itself. Once the New Z-Axis Motor Mount is in place, re-tighten the Lead Screw Nut screws. design by Pakkko here on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5204955 My Design: I hate the color red. That handle on top is gaudy and sticks out like a sore thumb. I designed and printer the 4020 top cap. Make sure you print and install the Z-Axis motor mount before trying to install the 4020 top cap. Stock Screws were used to mount. I also have a working copy of the firmware .bin file. I have tested it and it does work and I have been printing with it since doing this install. Message me and give me an email address and I will give you a Google Drive Link to download it. (DO NOT CHANGE THE .bin FILE NAME, UPLOAD IT TO THE PRINTER VIA MICRO-SD CARD AS IT IS) Additional Materials: 2 M4x25 screws (To mount fan) 2 M4 nuts (To mount fan) 2 M3 Screws (To mount bracket to carriage plate) If you are going to switch over to a Noctua Silent Fan, you will also need a Buck Converter Here are the links to what I used: (I DO NOT get paid for these links) I suggest buying a screw assortment, it is easier than parting them out at the hardware store. Screw assortment https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K1DV93T Noctua Silent Fan A4-X10 FLX (I bought 2 because I replaced the noisy case fan as well) This printer is virtually silent once you add these 2 fans. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M Buck Converter (Make sure you adjust the buck converter under load, meaning hooked to the stock fan and then adjust the output down to 12v for the Noctua Fan) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LSEBYHU SUNLU Black PLA Filament https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XG3RM58
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