Heavy Duty TS-35 Din Rail - Configurable

Description

----About This Model---- Extremely tough/rigid Din rail with mounting holes. Stronger than low quality metal din rails by far. Fits any standard TS-35mm compatible Din type mounted devices like MCCB breakers, contactors, electrical equipment etc. ITS REALLY STRONG, it will not break before your MCB breaks off first. Din devices are in 18mm widths. A standard 2p MCCB breaker is 2 spaces so its 36mm wide. Customize this Din rail to your need. The design is not directly following a typical folded metal TS-35 din rail. It has been specifically designed to be manufactured on a 3D printer and is far stronger than if it was made like a metal Din rail, though it perfectly fits all Din rail type devices. It has chamfered holes by which the fasteners make attachments, this is user configurable. ----About The Model Format---- This file is in FreeCAD format, why? Because STL is a rubbish format. Also because like OpenSCAD, FreeCAD can be easily modified to automatically generate you a customized part. Don't be afraid, even a complete neophyte can open FreeCAD and change the spreadsheet to modify this part as needed. Its free to download and works in Linux, Mac and that Widows 10 Crap. ----About FreeCAD--- Please READ First time using FreeCAD? Set the Model resolution first before opening any file. -go to Edit, Preferences, Workbenches, Part Design, Click Load Now, Then click Part Design on the far left column, click Shape View, set Maximum Deviation to %0.01, click ok, done. Open this file in FreeCAD, you will see the spreadsheet on the left menu, simply click it and adjust the settings as per your need. Then click back onto the body to confirm your changes. -You can click the ruler icon to measure things if you need. -I suggest you click the "CAD" button in the very bottom right and set to Gesture mode -If your all set, Click the Body and then press Control+E to export the body as an AMF file, all slicers can accept that format, its a compressed STL. you can specify the length, depth (though 7.5mm is standard for TS-35), how many holes, size of hole and chamfering of the holes. By default the holes are chamfered to flushly sit a standard #6 or #8 gypsum/wood screw. ----Rant---- Autodesk gives me the CREEPS. I have to upload my design to their server to convert to STL? That's so arbitrary and nonsensical; the only possible explanation for that is they what to peek at everything you do. Could they be any more obvious; I don't think so bub. FreeCAD 0.20 hands down accommodates all of my commercial requirements; I have absolutely no need or use for Fusion360 and I DO NOT TRUST AutoDesk, nor Adobe, nor Microsoft on principal if nothing else. ----Part Material Advise---- DO NOT use PLA. PLA is nearly a worthless material for anything that needs to bare a load; PLA deforms over time even at low temps (far below the deformation temp). PETG might be ok if it never comes into contact with direct sunlight. PETG creeps/sags big time when becoming warm under load even at 45c+. DO NOT use PETG outdoors, it WILL deform in direct sunlight in areas with warm climate. Indoor may be acceptable but keep in mind the mechanical properties of PETG make it particularly lousy for making brackets/clamps etc in general. ABS or ASA is a far better choice because even at warm temps they don't have the sag/creeping properties like that of PETG. ----My Experience and the Purpose of my Projects ---- There are many approaches to printing an item. My approach is solely centered around professional additive manufacturing in general; using low cost machines with minimal or no modifications. Nearly all my machines are the Ender 3 Pro with 1mm nozzle. Only mods are capricorn, bowden tube and very very tight bed springs. I am a huge fan of the OE Creality buildtec buildplate surface. I use it for ASA, ABS, Nylon 12, TPU and PETG with no coatings and i have no issues whatsoever. Mostly with buildtec the problem is too much adhesion. Why do I only use 1mm nozzles(or larger)? Wider layers produce stronger commercial grade products and in less time. It is extremely uncommon that commercial grade parts would require a smaller nozzle. I have never in 1.5 years had to use a smaller nozzle. Though some people might really need a smaller nozzle, there ins't much info on professional manufacturing with 1mm nozzles or larger. So I hope to share as much as I can with others because 1mm nozzles are difficult to master and settings are very important. It's far preferable to go thick, wide and slow than it is to go narrow, thin and fast. Not only in terms of strength and quality but also speed is generally better. For novelty sake, do what you want but for professional additive manufacturing, reproducibility, strength to material usage, machine wear and tear and final quality are hugely important. Recommendations for printing this part: Use a 1mm nozzle. PrusaSlicer is generally much better than Cura in my opinion. ----Relevant print settings---- No supports obviously Z offset -0.1mm PETG / -0.07 or -0.05mm for ASA Z Hop 1mm retract 4.5mm @ 40mm/s deretract 45mm/2 Perimeters 40mm/s Perimeters 35mm/s (external) GapFill 40mm/s Infill 45mm/s Accelerations: First layer 85mm/s2 perimeters 100mm/s2 briging 50mm/s2 infill 600mm/s2 travel 1500mm/s2 first layer height, PETG 0.35mm / ASA or ABS 0.2mm layer height thereafter 0.5mm PETG / 0.22-0.28mm for ASA Grid infill %35 (not Lines, its weaker) Bridge speed 20mm/s Bridge Acceleration 50 mm/s2 Ironing Enabled - %10 Flow, 0.2mm spacing "only retract when crossing perimeters" setting under infill settings MUST be disabled

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