Skywalker Legacy Lightsaber
Description
I wanted an easy to print, reasonably accurate, and sturdy Skywalker Legacy lightsaber. I decided to make my own because that way I could have everything I want in it. This is a link to the Tinkercad design. All I ask is that you not sell the files. Make all the lightsabers you want and sell them online, to your friends, to your enemies - but the files are free. This is the Skywalker Legacy lightsaber and it was passed around quite a bit. Made and used by Anakin, given to Luke by Obi-Wan, Given to Finn for safe keeping be Maz, given to Rey, and then given back to Luke. Even Han used it to cut open a tauntaun. Hopefully my images are enough for assembly but here are a few notes. * I use clear non-foaming Gorilla Glue. It takes longer to cure than super glue but leaves no residue. It also provides more working time and allows you to reposition things when you make a mistake. * Depending on your printer some of the parts will be a tight fit. I use a razor to remove the lip on the base of the grip sockets to make the pieces a little smoother when assembling. * I used M3 Torx Safety screws to in the ribs, to secure the dials, in the grip cap, and the bunny ears. * I used pieces of gold filament from the spool to make the posts in the plug insert. Secure the plug insert first then insert the filament and cut it flush with the grip. Then hit it with a little flame to smooth it out. * The end cap for the lower grip should be oriented with the screws and d-ring sockets directly opposite the switch in the middle grip section. * This is designed to take a 1/4 inch threaded rod. This provides strength and a little weight. If you're going to use a 1/4 inch threaded rod here are some tips. 1. Don't insert the rod until the glue is cured. Hold the section that the end of the rod is going through very tightly. 2. I find it best to cut the rod to 235mm and cut a slit in one end so you can screw it in. 3. Heat up the first few inches of the rod and it goes in a lot easier. Not so hot it melts the plastic, just enough to help deform it to the shape of the threads. 4. Insert it from the base. If you slip and scratch up the base it won't matter because it gets covered with a cap. It's best to use a drill with a flathead bit. 5. Keep a steady pace - this will keep the rod warm and it will move through the hole more easily. 6. Make sure it doesn't protrude more than about 3/8" or about 10mm so the emitter post can slip over it completely. I put a bit of glue on the threads to sure the emitter post. * Some notes about assembly order of the emitter. 1. Insert the emitter base in place first. The round portion goes down and the elongated portion sticks out about 1mm mast the grip edge. 2. Insert the emitter ring. I used a little glue where the surfaces mate with the grip but this is really tight after being screwed in so glue isn't necessary to keep it in place. 3. Attach the bunny ears and screw into place. 4. Place the emitter post in the hole in the emitter base. (Over the threaded rod if you used one.
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