Brain Bucket

Description

Skull v2.stl (and skull no eyes v2) fixes miniscule mesh deviation so first layer rim should look great all around. Enjoy passing out (or receiving) Halloween candy with creepy flare! As proof of Halloween worthiness, the pictured model held a combo of 32 snack size Kit Kats and Reeses peanut butter bites! BELOW the brain, and cap still rested flush on skull! Perfect for giving or receiving at the door (or in couch mode :-) Decorative conversational countertop candy hiding spot. Mostly smoothed walls for all files for less or no ringing, easier painting and faster printing. I had NO failed draft prints when testing the various pieces, so following guidance below should make for a fun adventure. Banding on skull walls in pics was from my loose hotend, They're NOT on the model. Remixed from my previous large lighted eyes skull https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5506102 which was a massive remix from Makerbot Human skull https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:622390 Brain extensively remixed from Wigglememore https://www.printables.com/model/112498-real-human-brain-from-mri-scan/files Skull sits fine and level without jaw if you want to skip that. Skull cap not necessary if you desire brain to be exposed full time Printing brain with flesh / skin / beige / light grey colored filament should make it POP, especially if not painting skull. 3 of the pictures are the Skull, skull cap and jaw with supports still attached so you see how they finished. Brain: Recommend 3 walls with .4mm nozzle (or .6mm nozzle and 2 walls). .12mm Layer Height (short to reduce island effect), or .2mm LH and variable layers with .1mm max variation (pictured) 60 degree overhangs (just has a few bits near the base), but should be totally safe with no supports. 15% infill to support top (I used cubic) seems overkill, but that's the one in pictured version. My personal settings resulted in 120 grams in 13.5 hours SKULL: Versions with AND without eyepost cavities (in case you don't desire to spook it up with eyes and craft). Sliced with 1.2 wall thickness. So 2 walls for .4mm nozzle, but I prefer .6mm nozzle for large prints and 2 walls (acceptable given no small features), whacking a lot of time off. Modeled for support overhang at 55 degrees. Lower setting results in more unnecessary filament and time. Make sure to print upside down and that rim is set on bed all around. 4 bottom and top layers. Using 3 cutouts of thin nonslip material adhered to brain shelf will help eliminate plasticky sound when placing and moving around. My personal settings resulted in 460 grams in 20.5 hours Skull Eyes: If you choose the eyed version (cutouts in a sockets for posts), you can use Eye Posts file for protecting those holes while painting. Eye Ring Posts fit in these holes and you can mount the Eyes file to those. Pictured version uses 26mm eyes from Amazon. https://a.co/d/8NARPsz Alternatively, use Eye Blanks and hot glue your eyes to them for off center pointing eyes. Fun if he looks left, right, up, or is even cross-eyed! Skull cap: Optional, but my tribe insisted I make it work with brain underneath. Wedges print separately (they're identical), to be glued on underside on the 4 flat pads of Cap print so it stays in place on skull. Wedges provide just enough clearance from brain underneath (or will center it when placing) and cap will rest flush on skull (as pictured). Wedges are not a totally snug fit, so cap will shift around a little when carrying your scary sugar dispenser / receiver bucket. Same Layer height guidance as brain. Set overhang 60 or higher and use Support Interface (or you may have a fight removing). 70 should be good balance of topside print success and easiest removal. Be PATIENT, slow and gentle. It's a large supported area and will take finesse to remove. Low end of filament temp range will also help it not fuse to model. My personal settings resulted in 115 grams in 8.5 hours Jaw file included, but not necessary to print. Depends on the effect and resting angle you like. 2 walls for .4mm nozzles. Suggest NOT using .6mm nozzle on this due to smaller nature and features. 50mm/s speed (25mm/s wall speed) should be good for the details. Turn on Small Feature speed or equivalent so it goes slower for the delicate teeth. Or slow manually when it gets close. Set support overhang at 55 degrees. STRONGLY recommend use of Raft for no risk print. It LOOKS unstable, but supports front and rear of bases WILL stabilize at as it builds up. My personal settings resulted in 50 grams in 6 hours PLEASE leave comments to ask questions in advance if you please, and alert me to general problems (good luck finding one :-)

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