Corsair K70 USB C Adapter (V1 Non RGB)

Description

**FILES TO PRINT: USB C adapter angled OR Clearance and Backer Clearance Cutout** See Below for full description of parts and how to perform this mod. This is an adapter piece to convert a corsair K70 original version into a removable type C cable because the stock cable is way too thick and bulky and not removable. This uses cheap AliExpress USB C ports. I have provided multiple files. The files titled "Backer" and "USB C Adapter" are the files I printed and used on my own keyboard, don't use these they needed modifications. I had to sand down the bottom flat part of the adapter to get it to sit correctly and I also had to use a soldering iron on the backer to put a slot for the wires as I thought the wiring routing was different than it actually was. I have made a few modifications to these parts in CAD to hopefully make them easier to print and fit the first try. The files names clearance I adjusted the bottom flat part clearance so hopefully you won’t have to sand it like I did. The backer named clearance is adjusted for this as well, but it will still need a soldering iron to make space for the wires, try not to use this one. The Adapter angled has an angle that I think should make the adapter angle with the back of the keyboard bottom case, I went off the install on my keyboard for the angles, so hope fully it fits (I did not print any of these modifications). The cutout backer is the one you want to use as it has a hole cutout for the wires to be routed like the factory ones. The Keyboard was easy to take apart. PROTIP there are 2 hidden screws on the version 1 of this keyboard, one is under the Corsair logo (I used a knife at the bottom of the last “R” to start prying up the logo), and one under the far left cover right next to the volume knob. Put down tape on the keyboard to avoid scratching it and use a flathead to pry up the piece. Try to bring up each side at the same time, it should pop straight up, don’t pry up one side then the other, it just bends the plastic (trust me I know), Unclip one side then move to the other side to unclip the other then pull straight up from the middle. Also, this keyboard is in 3 pieces, when taking the board apart you can separate the back plastic housing from the plastic part that runs along the top of the board to hold in the wire, volume and music controls and the brightness adjustment. That is one big piece of plastic just use your fingers on the bottom side to pry it up. I unfortunately did not remember to get pictures of the inside of the keyboard in the 2 times I had to take it fully apart, there are some on the internet though. THIS MOD BREAKS THE 2nd USB PORT ON THE KEYBAORD, at least the way I did it, I imagine you could stuff a USB hub in there if you wanted to(that was my plan but I don’t really use it that much and may introduce lag so I didn’t do it that way). Parts List / How to: I’m not sure if these AliExpress links will continue to work down the road, but you need a USB board that is roughly 14.5mm from the end of the port to the “ears” on the board. Link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004417926007.html. The ears keep the board and port from coming out of the slot when removing the cable, and the backer keeps the board in place when inserting the cable in. The dimensions of the USB C board are critical to this design, if you do buy some please be sure not to cut the ears flush with the board, they need to stick out a little to lock the board in place. You will also need I believe, 5 pin 2mm pitch JST connectors. I had 7 pin ones laying around, I’m not 100% sure the pitch, but I’m 90% sure they are 2mm, its that or 1.25mm as those are the only ones I’ve ever bought from AliExpress.(https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32949901985.html) I de-pinned my 7 pin connectors and used the spare 5 pin USB port connector from the old K70 cable. Just measure the length close enough to the factory cable, you don’t want too much excess. Also CHECK THE CONNECTOR FITS PROPERLY BEFORE FULLY REASSEMBLING THE KEYBOARD. My connector was a bit lose and worked when I put 5 screws back in, I then put the rest of the screws and all the keycaps on only to realize it no longer worked all because the connector was a bit loose. I had to put some felt tape around my connector to get it to fit tighter and tape down my wire as I had too much excess causing the connector to be at a weird angle. This keyboard also uses an extra ground wire that goes to the top metal of the deck, it is bonded to the USB ground somewhere on the board. I just got the smallest ring terminal I could find and soldered that to the 5th pin which I also connected to ground at the USB C port. Stock eyelet diameter is 3.2mm inside diameter and 6mm outside diameter. The M4 or M3 ring terminals should work I think from this AliExpress link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002859106759.html. USB Layout: The wire connections are the same as a standard USB port pinout, they are as follows: All the black wires are the grounds, including the eyelet. I believe the eyelet wire is connected to the far black wire on the USB connector. Then, the next Black wire is a ground; Green is Data Positive; White is Data Negative; and Red is Voltage +. I twisted the Data+ and Data- wires, only because the stock wires were twisted, not sure if it matters in a keyboard for EMI shielding. I tried bonding the Ground of the USB C port to the USB C connector to act as shielding, I couldn’t get the connector to fit in the adapter when I did this, so I removed that feature. Assembly notes: Take note where that little silicon pad goes on the back plastic when you take apart the keyboard. The Volume control stuff all goes through a ribbon cable that has contacts on it that are just pressure dependent for the data, that silicon pad goes underneath that connection to ensure proper contact. If you have no screws in the keyboard you will need to press down just below the track skip buttons to add pressure to the volume contact to get that to work without screws. There is a clear plastic piece with 3 nubs on it, that is for the num lock and caps lock lights, the 3 nubs go through the aluminum top plate to act as light guides. Ensure the BIOS switch is in the correct place when you reassemble the keyboard so it lines up with the actual switch. **THERE ARE 2 HIDDEN SCREWS TO TAKE THE BOARD APART, 1 UNDER THE LOGO ANOTHER UNDER THE RIGHT VOLUME KNOB COVER** That massive description should cover everything needed to do this mod yourself, I mainly wrote it because I couldn’t find any write ups for the version of the keyboard I had, the non RGB one. Print this and enjoy, all fusion 360 files are uploaded so you guys can get measurements I used incase you buy different usb ports. Again, the spare USB port is not retained with this mod unless you buy and take apart a usb hub to shove inside the keyboard.

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