Duplo Compatible Motored Train Locomotive
Description
This is my first design that I'm sharing on Thingiverse. Please suggest if I miss any important points and I will update the instructions. I couldn't make the coupling rods work smoothly. Any suggestions to improve them are welcome. This is an N20 DC motor powered duplo compatible train locomotive with an owl figure in front. I made this for my 3 year old son using 3d printed parts and spares laying around. Design made using Tinkercad. Link below: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/lIJTFzVkTMh-duplo-train-v3 Non printed parts: - 1x 2P3T slide switch. I bent the legs at corners for stronger fit into the body - 2x 58x3.2x3.2 bars for axles. I cut square metal skewers and snug fit into the wheels - 2x M3 (40mm length) screws and nuts - 1x small LiPo battery, I had it laying around. Probably 500 mAh or something - 1x TP4056 LiPo charge discharge protector circuit for battery - 1x micro usb port. TP4056 didn't have any holes for fixing and I didn't bother fitting the TP4056 for charging. Used a micro usb port for easy charging - 12x M2 screws of various lengths (2 for top cover, 4 for motor cover, 2 for micro usb port, 4x for coupling rods) - 1x N20 micro geared DC motor. I used a 300 RPM version. Lower RPMs will be too slow. Higher RPMs don't have enough torque. You can opt for higher RPM if you use a higher voltage battery Instructions: - Print and prepare all parts. Test fitness of motor cover, wheels etc depending on your printer calibration - Remove supports - Connect the gear to the motor and place the motor in place. Make sure you solder the cables to the motor before fixing it in place - Prepare rear axle. First connect one wheel to the axle. Then connect the small axle cover (5mm) and push it towards the wheel. Position the axle gear inside the base and push the axle through. Add the other axle cover (10mm) and the other wheel to the other end of the axle - Place the motor cover and screw it in with 4x 2mm screws - Connect the front axle to one wheel, add axle cover (38mm) and slide it through the front axle hole. Then connect the other front wheel - Bend the slider switch legs at corners (not the connection pins) at 90 degrees. Solder the cables to the slider switch. Put the switch in position on the top part - Place 3mm nuts inside nut holes (front and end) in the top part - Solder wires to battery, TP4056 and micro usb port - Place micro usb port in place and fix it by 2x 2mm screws - Connect all outstanding cable connections from switch to motor to TP4056 - Test if everything works fine before finishing it off - Close top cover and screw it in place using 2x 2mm screws - Place top and bottom together and tighten them by 2x 3mm screws Optional: - I also designed coupling rods between front and rear wheels to make it look cooler and have 4x4 drive. If you want to use them you should be careful to align the coupling rod connection holes while fixing the wheels. I couldn't make the coupling rods work well so I ended up removing them in the end. You can use 4x 2mm screws to connect the rods to wheels - For better traction I used some rubber bands that were laying around in the driving wheels - I printed all parts separately, using 0.2mm resolution on 0.4mm nozzle mostly. Used brims where necessary to prevent warping. Supports necessary for the top part. However, I used support blockers for nut holes as it was hard to remove supports there. For base, I also used supports to make sure axle holes are clean
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