Lulzbot Taz Pro Dual E3D Hemera XS Revo Retrofit Upgrade
Description
Provided as-is with no support. This unit was printed using Carbon Fiber augmented Polycarbonate material on a very tightly calibrated non-lulzbot printer. Not sure if a standard Lulzbot can manage to produce this tight of an output to manage as some of these parts are very small and delicate and precision is required. This was built as a project to keep me busy. What works for me may not work for you. The unit I use this on has been custom built from the ground up and is 15mm wider than the "OG" Lulzbot, and uses physical end-stop switches. I don't believe that would prevent this upgrade from working on stock, but I can't promise anything. The BoM list here is likely incomplete. Requires machined parts from your original Dual Titan Aero hotend - or for you to have the missing parts machined. There are 3 custom aluminum parts required from the original toolhead. The other parts can be sourced without custom machining. The actuators are freely available (the "-Aleph" variant is just terminated with a different connector - if you can build this toolhead, you can change a connector). The 6mm rails and J-sleeve bushings are easily ordered from IGUS. Lower mm rail holder (machined) needs to be modified with 2 drill holes, tapped for m3, and 2 grub screws with no point (needs to be all thread, basically - if your set screws have a point, grind it off first - there's not enough material in the OG part to catch many threads). This Voids your warranty. No warranty expressed or implied. Not for incorporation into commercial projects or for commercial use. Not responsible for any damages by use of this information. Use at your own risk. Please don't ask questions from myself or from Lulzbot - this isn't a supported project. In my instance, this changed my custom Dual TitanAero hotend from 1119.90 grams to 849.5 grams. A significant decrease in weight. And is significantly lighter. Approximate Wire Lengths (in case of fans, measured from fan case edge to end of wire - same as Lulzbot measures) - E1 REVO Assembly - 270MM - E2 REVO Assembly - 280MM - E1/E2 5V PROBE/SIGNAL Line - 200MM - E1/E2 MOTOR HARNESS - 185MM - E1 5V FAN - 305MM - E2 5V FAN - 300MM - BLOWER 24V - 260MM - 1/4" BRAIDED SLEEVING (x2) - 155MM Approximate BoM: - 2x E3D Hemera XS REVO HotEnds - 2x ACTUONIX PQ12-100-6-R Linear Actuator 6V - 2x 20 Pin Molex Micro-fit3 connectors (Female Pins) - DO NOT USE EXTENSION HARNESS WITH THIS DESIGN - 8x M3x6 FHCS - Wire Cover Mounts - 4x M3x18 - 40x10 Fan Mount + Grill Guard (NOCTUA 40x10 5v + NOCTUA Guards) - 1x M3x20 BHCS - Blower Fan Mount - 1x M3 Washer - Blower Fan Mount - 4x 67mm long 6mm Rail (IGUS) - 4x J-Sleeve Bushing (IGUS) - 4x M3x20 BHCS - Revo Heatsink to Motor Mount - 8x M3x26 BHCS - Screws for Rear of Motor to Motor Mount - 8x M3 Washers - Motor Mounts - 2x M3x12 - Actuator Mount (+ 5mmx3mm M3 Heat Set Inserts) - 2x M3 Washer - Actuator Mount - Inline crimps - Must remove Molex Interconnects from REVO Hotend assembly and replace with crimps. If you do this wrong, you're going to have a bad time - bad crimps can lead to fires. - Various Heat Shrink Sizes (Use UL/CSA Flame Retardant) Pin-outs for extension harness - I may get around to posting this, but, otherwise, you'll have to look at the OG docs from Lulzbot to figure that out. Like I said, I'm sharing the files because I thought it'd be nice, but I'm not really looking to provide support for this. It was a keep-busy project during these crazy times. You will either need to offset your bed plate, or you will need to change the tool offsets in the firmware to use this design, as the nozzles sit in different places than stock. Fan has an integrated support in middle front - remove it when done. Print with custom supports for fan in duct area only for better results. Included a filament sensor upgrade to switch it to 1.75mm filament (native) so that you can use the Hemera Auto-load capabilities. You might wonder why it's still also carved out (topside) for the large format PTFE tube - well, I found that the 1.75mm PTFE tubes tend to flop all over the place uncontrollably, so I slid them inside of the original larger-format PTFE tubes for stability. This way, there is a straight 1.75mm channel, but there's a larger PTFE tube for directional reinforcement to keep things out of the way during printing. Bottom of filament tube clamp should have a short piece of 4mm OD 2mm ID PTFE tube pressed into bottom, stopping just before it contacts the roller wheels. Have fun.
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