20mm conduit, 8 way connector for garden net/frost cover frame/trellis
Description
This is my (perhaps insane) 8 way connector for joining 20mm electrical conduit parts to form a frame for netting/frost covering garden sections... or maybe helping to build fanciful two and three-dimensional trellises. I also have the equivalent T-connector and four-limbed cross connectors for the same conduit found here: T-Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163480 Cross Connector: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6163584 Now, there's a TON of information on the T-connector page, and some addendums in the cross connector page.. I don't want to re-hash that here. (Who'd have thought I can say so much about a piece of plastic?) but it's worth reading with the links above if you want to make the most of this piece. Now this is a serious connector, and it needs some hefty infill (say 50% or more) and additional boundary layers for maximum strength. The commercially-made joining pieces for these electrical conduit pieces.... are not designed for load-bearing applications nor the stresses of bent hoop structures. I made this glorified asterisk-like connector so that it can be used (with bending the limbs) to form a dome/gazebo like structure... or join hoop-house sections in all manner of directions and ways. This is particularly good for linking frames that protect long/narrow beds. As mentioned in the other connectors "thingy pages", there are holes to use 45mm M4 bolts to both lock the conduit inside the sockets, as well as add some compressive force to squeeze the print layers together. Instructions for most-efficient drilling practices, can be found on the other connector pages. WHY DO THESE CONNECTORS WORK IN ONLY ONE PLANE? Since my first-generation 2/3 plane connectors broke due to FDM layer separation issues, all the connectors in this series are printed so all connectors extend out on one plane, meaning that FDM printers are more than capable of building these very strongly while lowering the risk of snapping bits off due to layering weaknesses. To build structures on multiple planes, I use multiple offset T-connectors, rotated to connect things in whatever missing plane my parts don't point in. If you're worried about these connectors vulnerability to UV/water, I recommend using PETG/ABS or whatever outdoor suited filament of your choice... and taping the connectors to block UV rays once the frame is assembled and in place. I used PETG and protecting it with tape works. Frankly, I'm still in the testing phase, but I'd love feedback, nothing has snapped or otherwise failed me so far, but I'm only most of the way through my first couple of seasons. I'd love to see pictures of the structures you can make.
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