Volkswagen E1/ID.3 under-dash mount
Description
# Volkswagen E1/ID.3 under-dash mount Choice is good. ## Tools and materials required * Trim remover/spudger for the cover behind the head unit. * Magnetized (else you will be entering a world of pain) Torx T20 screw driver for the 2 screws behind the head unit. * Drill and screw for the final attachment (don't give up yet, stay with me and read on). ## STLs in the project * The different mount configurations: Long and short, straight and recessed. * Wedge.stl, a helper for fitment. See below. ## HOWTO 1. Work from the passenger seat. 1. Unclip the cover behind the head unit. 1. Remove the two T20 screws behind the head unit. 1. Slide out the head unit, leave it connected and rest it on top of the dashboard. 1. Unclip (two compliant clips left and right - use a screw driver to push them away from you) and remove the lower panel. 1. Slide the 3D printed part over the panel's frontal ridge from the side. 1. Position to your liking, optionally use a wedge (see *Wedge.stl*) to temporarily prevent it from sliding around. 1. Once satisfied with the position, mark a drill hole and ideally use a drill press to drill an M4 hole through the lower panel. 1. Use an M3x16 wood screw from the bottom to secure the mount against it's own upper counterpart. Best to drill the hole in the part open to a clean 2 mm so the material won't crack. ## Notes * Print on the flat edge (sorry, forgot to rotate for the upload), without any supports. * The 38 mm (1.5 in) hole pitch borrows from the (formerly?) popular "HR Herbert Richter" mounting plate standard. * I use [this adapter](https://www.printables.com/model/561205-adapter-for-motorized-qi-charger) for [this Qi charger](https://amzn.eu/d/5nOpfSh). The charger is a nasty piece of plastic, but this exact combination has already been proven to work since 3 years in one of the family's other cars. * Remember that the opening in the dashboard also allows you to route a USB cable to the fuse box. ## Limitations * We had issues with accidental touch button operations with the phone being that close to the head unit. * A bit of wobble from the plastic carrier panel. Could use support from below, but will then be highly model- or even generation-specific. ## F.A.Q. * Can I use PLA? * No, PLA starts softening around 65 °C and is not suitable for any automotive use. Mine is printed in unpigmented Formfutura ApolloX ASA and spray painted black. I've used this same material for this purpose before and it is stable in any kind of weather, even when exposed to direct sunlight. * What other print settings did you use for the ASA? * 50% infill, 80 mm/s, sliced as for PLA but with 240 °C nozzle and 80 °C bed to accommodate the ASA, and a 10mm brim to counter warping. * What to do if the print warps? * Do not panic. I personally use a warped print. * Why the low positioning? * It's the best I could do. There's no elevated mounting spot to be found on the dash. Also it still is a lot higher than the Brodit mount. * Which of the 4 mounts do you use? * Straight long, but manually sawed short to the length that is now straight short. :-) * Carplay and Android Auto are great! Why not just use the charging cradle in the center console? * Choice is good. * Is it compatible with Cupra Born, ID.4/5, ID.Buzz, other cars that have the same head unit? * I personally have a Cupra Born on order and will find out. The others, why not? Compare the photos, give it a try, remix if needed, post a make. * I can't drill a hole into my leased car, can I? * I've drilled holes of similar magnitude into my leased cars since the 1990s with no complaints ever. However, the model fits decently without a hole, held only by two wedges. * May I use anything from this project commercially? * **No, you may not.** Don't go freeloading on maker websites.
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