Remix of Makerfarm i3v Y-Axis End Plate for 8", 10" & 12" with Belt Tensioner
Description
**Update 2/3/2016 Major Rework** The Dimension For The 8" I3V Should Be Correct Now Since I Received The Dimensions From Colin Farrer The Creator Of The Makerfarm I3V Series. I Also Changed The Way The Ledges Work So I Could Vary The Heights Which Should Make It Stronger For The 12" I3V As Well As The 10" In The Openscad File The Following Variables You May Want To Change. First Set The Variable I3V To The Size Machine You Have, Either 8, 10 Or 12 **I3V = 10;** //Length Of Ledge Along The Top Before It Slopes Down **Ldg_Len = 22;** //Height Of The Ledge On The Top Side //I Used 20 For The 8, 10 & 12" //You Might Want To Go To 24 On The 12" //You Might Want To Use 14 Or Less For The 8" **Ldg_Ht_Top = 20;** //20 Is The Maximum Here Before Part Of Gets Cut //For Belt Tensioner Add On Ldg_Ht_Bot = 20; **Update 12/24/2015 Idler Insert Jig** I Added A Jig To Make It Easier To Insert The M5X30Mm Bolt To Attach The Idler Pulley. Since It Is A Small Footprint On The Printbed, I Used A 6Mm Brim To Keep It Stuck. I Am Using F695Zz Mini Metal Double Shielded Flanged Ball Bearings (5Mm*13Mm*4Mm) From Ebay This Is A Modification Of Http://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:613602 For The Makerfarm I3V 10". I Modified This Design So It Should Fit The 8", 10" Or 12" I3V. I Have Been Using The Previous Design For Several Months Without Any Problems & Decided To Update It To Add A Little More Structural Support With Ledges That Have Worked Well In My Other Designs. The Big Change Is Of Course Being Able To Use This On A 8", 10" Or 12" I3V. I Also Added A Little More Plastic To The Belt Tensioner Although That Has Been Working Quite Well For A Few Months. I Included The Openscad File For The Y-Axis Endplate & The Belt Tensioner. The Openscad File Uses The Included Dxf File For The 8", 10" Or 12" Versions. I Used The File Https://Github.Com/Donkahones/Makerfarm-Prusa-I3V-12-Inch To Get The Hole Pattern Spacing For The 12" I3V, Then Subtracted 2" To Get The 10" & 4" To Get The 8". I Have Not Tested The 8" Or The 12", But Feel They Should Both Work Since The 10" Version Works Perfectly. I Had Some Trouble Getting The Washers On Both Sides Of The Bearings, But Found The Trick Of Holding Them Together & Squeezing The Plastic Flange Together So It Was A Tight Fit As I Put Them In Place Before Getting The Bolt Through Them. I Had To Adjust The Eccentric Nuts On The Y-Carriage & Relevel The Bed After Replacing This Part. I Printed The 10" Version Using Petg Plastic With .5 Rectilinear Infill Density & .2 Layer Height & Added Ears To The Corners. It Took 3 Hours 59 Minutes To Print. I Printed Both Parts Before At .2 Infill Without Any Problems, But Decided To Use More Infill This Time. If You Install This Part, While Printing Something On Your Printer, Put Your Finger On The Bottom Right Or Left Leg Like Shown In One Of The Photos & Feel How Much Less Vibration Is There Relative To Other Parts Of This Plastic Part Like The Middle Or Lower Part Of The Z Frame. My Printer Is Pretty Quiet As It Is, But Seemed Even Quieter After I Installed This Part. I Am Wondering If That Z Design Is Helping To Deflect The Vibration.
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