VRS DirectForce Pro Pedal Faceplates

Description

## The design The original VRS faceplates are well designed and well proven by a lot of sim racers. However, it's a matter of taste, if you like the metal plates with holes in it. Especially if you are a sock driver, you may prefer a smoother surface that also isn't that cold on your feet like the original bare metal faceplates. So I designed faceplates that have a similar radius and size as the original plates, but without holes and sharp edges. They need to be screwed from the back for this to work. I included two versions for both pedals: One without a thread insert, and one for M5 thread inserts. I use them without thread inserts. Especially the brake needs to take some forces, so I designed them to be combined with the original faceplates. You don't want the faceplate to brake in the first hour of soloing a 4h endurance race around the Nordschleife. If you want larger faceplates, other screw sizes, or more chamfered edges, the OpenSCAD source files are included as a ZIP download. Just open the SCAD file and adjust parameters in OpenSCAD's customizer area or within the file. *OpenSCAD quickstart guide:* Download OpenSCAD. Open the file. In the parameters section on the right change values as needed. Press F6 to render. After it's done rendering (you hear a bling through your speakers and the model appears) press F7 to save the STL that you can then drop in your slicer. ## The print and the assembly 1. Print the faceplates (PLA, 0.2 layer height, 20 % infill, 3 walls, supports on top of the inside). For both pedals choose either M5 Screw version or M5 Thread Insert version. 2. Optional: If you printed the version for thread inserts, insert them now. 3. Take off the original faceplates, and put them inside the printed plates. They stay there to strengthen the plates. 4. Use a M5x16 screw and put it in from the backside of the pedal, to screw the faceplate combos on. You can also use the original screw, but it's a bit short and countersunk, that will work, but better would be a screw that is not countersunk and long enough. Be sure it's not longer than 16 mm, else the screw will pierce the front. If you use the version without thread inserts, just screw the screw into the blank hole. The hole has no thread, but the screw will cut its thread into the material. ## The remix You have another idea and want to remix it or base your design on this one? You find the *.scad file in the thing files. I'd be grateful if you ping me, if you find an optimization or an alternation.

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