Creality K1 Riser for LED Mod
Description
This is a remix of Joe Cooper's Riser Kit on Printables. https://www.printables.com/model/520207-jc-creality-k1-lid-riser Links to all of the parts in this build are below in the description. This project involves soldering and working with Low Voltage. Parts Designed / Modified in TinkerCAD Parts Needed 1.25mm JST Connectors 5v-24v Mini Buck Convertor 12v or 24v LEDs. 4x M3-0.5x30mm Socket Cap Screws The Creality K1 is a great machine, but there are a few things that needed to be upgraded. The factory LED strip is tiny, and although it does get the job done, it is severely lacking. There are a few risers available, but Joe Coopers was by far my favorite. Using his models, I modified the corners by adding a 45º ledge to the inside top of each corner. I also made my own "Betweeners", that match the profile of the corners and they also have a 45º ledge on the inside. The 45º ledge is used to glue a thin LED strip or in my case LED Modules, which will point towards the bed. The factory LED strip is 24v DC, but the LEDs I had were only 12v. I ended up using a MP1584EN Mini Buck Converter, to drop the voltage to the needed 12v. I needed a place to store the buck converter, so I modified the front right corner, which is where the factory wire is, to be big enough to store some wire from the LEDs as well as the connector from the factory plug. The factory plug is a 1.25mm JST 2 pin male, so you'll need a female connector to connect to it. I used a combination of black hot glue and Gorilla Super Glue Gel (regular super glue should work fine as well) to glue the parts of the riser together, and I also used the black hot glue to glue the LEDs to the ledge. I replaced the factory M3 socket cap screws with M3x30mm screws so the magnets on the lid still keep it in place. I also placed a piece of the soft side of a velcro strip on the left side betweener so that the chain doesn't bang on it while printing. JST Connectors - https://a.co/d/4JkmR9O Buck Convertor - https://a.co/d/cUawXn1 LEDs - https://a.co/d/cH67mPD M3-0.5x30mm - https://a.co/d/fA1qX13 (I got my screws from Home Depot, but these are the same.) Assembly: The "Kit" file has all of the parts need for the build, or else you'll need to print ... One (1) of Each Corner Three (3) Betweeners One (1) Back Betweener One (1) Lid Note: If you are not going to do the led mod, then print two (2) of the Front Left Corner. Note: If you are going to use 24v LEDs, skip the part of the buck converter, the wiring should still be important to read through. After everything is printed, remove the top lid, and proceed to remove the Four (4) M3x4mm Socket Cap Screws. These don't hold anything together and are only needed so the lid has a place to sit. Place each corner piece in there respective spot, keeping in mind the one with the recess is the Front Right and The Rear corners only have the ledge on the side and not on the back. The Right Rear corner also has the angled notch for the Bowden tube. Using the M3x30mm screws, screw each corner down. Place each betweener into the notches, about halfway down, then one side at a time, put a drop of super glue on each side of a betweener and push it down, repeat this for the other two sides. The Rear Betweener is slightly different because of the notch for the Bowden tube. Place halfway down and put a drop of super glue on the long side and then push down. When the short side is almost seated place a small drop of super glue and place in its notch. You can reinforce the inside seams with hot glue if you'd like, but if you did a good job with the super glue, you should be fine. Let the super glue cure for about 10 min, then unscrew the corners and carefully pick up the riser, if it feels loose, reapply glue in the needed spots and let it sit for another 10min or longer. Once you are set to move on, it's time for the LEDs. Feel for the wire from the top right corner to factory led strip. When you have a good grip on it, gently pull away to the side of the machine to not damage the connector. If you pull towards the build plate, you'll damage the connector on the original strip and the wire itself. Once it's free, carefully connect the new female connector with the pigtail to the factory connector, make sure the ends do not touch. You'll need to check the polarity of the wire to proceed from here. On my machine, the + / - were reversed, so you'll definitely want to make sure. When you figure out which is which, remove the pigtail and solder the leads to the buck connector in the respective spots. Plug the buck connector back in, and with you voltage tester, test the output voltage. Use the potentiometer to adjust the voltage to the range to meet your LEDs needs. Remove the buck converter and finish wiring up the LEDs. When you're all done place the riser back on the machine and plug in the connector to make sure everything works. Neatly place the connector in the recess and put on the lid. The excess wire from the factory plug can be tucked into the top right corner as shown in the pictures.
Statistics
Likes
0
Downloads
0