VilmaAudio V1 Headphones

Description

READ BEFORE PRINTING! HIFI doesn't need to be expensive. I designed headphones that actually sounds good and balanced. Easy to drive. No powerful headphone amp needed. Designed to be printed with little supports. Only small supports needed to print the cup_holder. I have only printed these with my old Ender 3. Tolerances of the parts may vary between printers. Frequency response of the headphone included. ----------------------------------- You need to print: 1x headband (PETG or ABS. PLA works but not as well, loosens a bit in use) 4x slider_brake (Print in TPU!!) 4x slider_brake_holder (Any hard plastic) 2x cup_holder (Any hard plastic) 4x cup_holder_adapter (Print in TPU!!) 2x cup (Any hard plastic, PRINT SECOND ONE MIRRORED!!, holes for connectors have to face forward) 2x driver_cover (Any hard plastic) 2x cup_backside_cover (Any hard plastic) You also need: - Glue for gluing the headphone driver (Superglue works) - 2x 50mm headphone drivers (different drivers sound different) Use these for the right tuning: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/ole-wolff-electronics-inc/OWR-5088TA-32/16343863 - 2x PJ392 3.5mm audio connectors (or equivalent for 6mm hole) - Pair of pads (artificial leather, solid, 110M) Preferably use these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000577538972.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.39.1b801802cuGMBI Brainwavz solid XL pads work also. (Pads influence to the final sound drastically) - 28x M2 x 10mm self tapping screws ( You have to snip couple millimeters off from four of them or just buy 4x shorter ones, 7mm long) Example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32973358097.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.56.1b801802cuGMBI - 80mm long 5mm outer diameter metal rod (can be found from hardware store or use aluminium spacer rods from aliexpress or ebay) Example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003993303243.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.15.1b155ae8C0ycGq&algo_pvid=274b4405-cd83-4448-8cc6-db310a0fc75a&algo_exp_id=274b4405-cd83-4448-8cc6-db310a0fc75a-7&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%213.07%212.43%21%21%213.26%212.58%21%402101d69b17062086020954947e8f3a%2112000027671845306%21sea%21FI%213414231210%21&curPageLogUid=cXTNQ2jpZsMQ&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A - Some cheap cleaning cloth for dampening in front of driver (very thin cloth like disposable one, not paper one, light and air needs to go trough the cloth) Some other cloth may work also (I might come with the cover design without the cloth in the future). - Some fluffy cotton (for dampening inside of the cup, optional, smooths the sound little bit) - Thin wire for connecting connectors and headphone drivers - Soldering iron and solder - Headband cushion (optional, for comfort) Example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000159705526.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.17.1b801802cuGMBI - Headphone cable (Hifiman or Focal compatible 2 x 3.5mm cable works) Example: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006016619829.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.1b801802cuGMBI ---------------------------------------- Assembly: It is pretty obvious how 3D printed parts are assembled. - Insert slider breaks to the holes in headband. Screw the brake holders in place. - Push the metal rods through the holes (might be hard to push through, use force if needed). - Insert the other end of the rod in its place in cup holder part and insert the screws from outside to tighten the rod in place. (These 4 are the ones that need to be shorten) - Take the cups and and glue the headphone driver in from the backside. Only little glue is needed on the outer rim of the driver to hold it in its place. Be careful not to make mess with the glue. Let the glue dry. - Insert connectors in their places. Tighten with the included nut. (Don't tighten too much. Threads might be very weak in some connectors. Buy some extra in case of breaking. They are cheap.) - Connect drivers to the connectors with the wire. Solder both drivers to tip + and sleeve - of the connector. Ring not used. Google TRS connector for reference. Multimeter is handy tool for figuring out the connections. - Glue piece of the cleaning cloth with small dots of glue to the driver cover (to the side that goes against the cup). Cloth needs to cover only the middle part where the sound comes through to your ear. Don't cover the six small holes. If the headphone is still too bright (check the "Tuning" part at the end of this text) add a layer of cloth on top of the other one. I suggest that you glue the cloth to its place AFTER you have experienced with how many layers of cloth you need. Cloth stays in place between the cup and cover without the glue also. - Screw the driver cover to the cup with the 4 screws. The three holes go in front of the ear and behind the ear. - Put the cotton inside the cup from the backside and screw in the back cover. This part is optional. Cotton just prevents resonances. - Insert the cup holder adapters to the holes in the cup. - Stretch the cup holder handles carefully in their places located in the cup part. - Put the headband cushion on its place. - Alternatively you can wire the headphones for only one 3.5mm connector in the left or right side. Cups have holes in top of them to put the wire through them. Headband also have holes for the wiring if needed. ---------------------------------------- Tuning: Headphone is measured with two layers of cloth in front of the driver and hole reduced little bit in back of the driver. Too bright (sharp highs): Add a layer of cloth between the cup and the driver cover Not enough highs: Use thinner cloth or take one layer off if you used multiple layers. Too much bass: Cover part of the hole backside of the driver. You may have to explore with this one to fit your needs.

Statistics

Category

Tags