Sidewinder X2 Y Axis Linear Rail Non-Invasive Mount
Description
So this part is a heavily modified version of this part: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4553090 (For the life of me I can't remember where I got the STL of the original mount that gave me the additional 6 mounting holes so I didn't have to drill them out, but if anyone knows, PLEASE message me and I'll give credit where credit is due, or I'll even take it down if the creator wants me too... I really do apologize about that, I just thought people could use this piece where I couldn't, it's all in good positivity, no offense at all... Sorry) I thought I could try using the outer 6 bolts as well so give it some strength but it seems as the original 6 bolts that go directly to the linear rails are more than enough. I've ran a few prints already and I'm very impressed as to how quite it is, and once I do the the input shaper and linear advance (pressure advance, (are they the same thing? lol) Anyway, I used 2x MGN12H rails, 1x 450mm and the other 400mm... The 450mm on the left side. Only trouble I had was the Y axis end stop but I ended up designing my other that's adjustable and that worked out great... I hope this helps others in their endevour, my next project is the X axis on this SWX2 and then the X axis on the CR-30 belt printer, along with the NAK30 stepper motors... Wish me luck!!! So basically in the end, the ones with the 12x bolts didn't end up working, either because of the belt getting in the way or for a few other small reasons which I'm sure someone who is more experienced than me can figure out. Mixed in the original STL of the mount and removed non essential parts, this way it's not only the 6 bolts to the linear rails holding the bed to the rails/printer, but instead it's now 6 more directly to the X mount of the Y axis carriage. The first one that says “Possible Belt Blockage” may need a new design for the belt, which I did from scratch but I'm not modeller to the level that I could trust other people's machines, it would feel irresponsible. However it shouldn't be too hard to design one. The other STL gets rid of the protruding cylinders altogether and that should work fine. I also included the original STL that I linked to his original thingiverse page, which actually ended up working great. All printed via ABS. I just hope one day, maybe, someone can perfect this model so it can be printed from PETG since that would be more than strong enough! I've attached the original STL that I ended up using, only uses 6x bolts that go directly to the linear rails and they work GREAT… Didn't realize how strong it would actually be… So I hope others can benefit from it… I also included a 3mf file so people can see the settings, you'll notice when slice and move the layers down to where the outer 2 bolts go in, it seems to give it a layer or two of support which I think is important for long term use. Please use ABS, although PETG should be find but over time ABS is the way to go for sure… I'm really happy with how this turned out, and many thanks to all who helped me, you know who you are… BIG thanks to you. I now have the confidence to tackle the X axis of the SWX2 and for the CR-30, (and the NAK3D Stepper Motors)… Also I got Klipper running on my SWX2!!!! For me that's quite an accomplishment. Hopefully I can do the same to the CR-30 and Sovol SV-04… Anyway, ENJOY!!! Please contact me for any copyright issues or anything like this, it's really my first mod I'm uploading… (Also being uploaded to printables) PRINT SETTINGS: (used a 0.6mm nozzle on Sidewinder X1 but can be used on 0.4, just print at 0.25 layer height) (Oh and btw, I had to use horizontal expansion -0.1mm to get it to fit perfectly, but that could be just a printer issue, so please take that with a grain of salt) First layer height - 0.3mm Wall count - 6 Top layers - 4 (or 5 would be better) Bottom layers - 3 Infill - 40% (You could try lowering to 20% if print fails) Infill type - Cubic Subdivision Print Temp - If filament recommends 230 - 240, then use 240. Higher temp, better layer adhesion Speed - Print nice and slow, 30mm/s would be ideal, walls keep them to 25mm/s If printing ABS, NO PRINT COOLING, make sure there's no wind draft, and use Elmers Purple Glue stick to help adhesion. What you use for adhesion, use it... Last thing you want is for the corners or any part to lift off the best.' Skirt - Do only 1x skirt, should be more than enough to purge the nozzle. Other than that, you should be good to go! Please post your results or if you have any issues, I'd be glad to help!
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