Airsoft FPG

Description

Warning I take no responsibility for your actions with the supplied files, if you should decide to make it, or if you are not legally allowed to own or manufacture such a airsoft replica according to the laws of your country, state, province, community and yet still decide to make it. This is for a WE/TM or EF/SA/VFC G17/18 airsoft replica only. The files are provided as is, free and under the creative common non-commercial license. All parts are compatible with the original FPG except for the Lower and Grip. This is for airsoft only, not a real firearm, however it can do damage if aimed at the wrong place or direction. Treat it responsibly and use the appropriate safety gear. Use caution and point in a safe direction when folding and unfolding. Notes This has been a passion for me to make a FPG that'll work with a WE or EF version G17/18. After years working on it, off and on along with three relationships I'm releasing the files. I put it as a creative commons non-commercial, I really don't care if I make anything off this but ask that it's not put on commercial order 3d printing sites. Feel free to edit a part that you want to improve or personalize, make it yours. Parts Pins 7 3mm pins 1 2.5x14.5-15.2mm pin 2 4.8x35.9mm pins 1 3.25x140mm pin WE extra pins 1 3mm pin for hammer assembly on WE 1 1.7-1.8x7mm pin for trigger bar spring on WE EF extra parts Small screw from laptop to hold slide retention bar Springs The measurements for the springs are wire diameter, outer coil size, number of coils, angle of the spring, clockwise CW or counter clockwise CCW, location 1.2mm, 8mm, 11, 180°, CW, 2 main fold springs 1-0.8mm, 5mm, 4, 180°, CW, Back cover 0.8mm, 5mm, 2, 45°, Clip to hold grip 1mm, 5.4mm, 3, 90°, trigger guard 1mm, 8.2mm, 3, 180°, CCW, Foregrip with end sticking out from the side at 90° 0.5mm, 4.5mm, 5, 90-135°, CW, Foregrip locking arm 0.6mm, 8mm, 4. 180° Trigger spring adapted from compression spring to torsion spring 4.3x100mm compression spring for charging handle and upper retention button 1.3x23.5, Straight Glock mag release spring 2.5-5 lbs Extra modifications EF trigger bar grind behind trigger with file to fit grip fold pin Tools to help with assembly Small phillips head screw driver Two sets of needle nose pliers Needle or hobby file set Hobby knife Rubber band Wire cutter File Selection Select the proper lower and upper files. Figure out the brand of your replica G17/18, WE or EF. The file LowerEF is for a Elite Force brand and LowerWE is for a WE brand. Then choose what type of slide realease you want to use, LowerEF, LowerWE will have the same bent out slide release as the orgiginal FPG. The LowerEFSR, LowerWESR will have a unbent standard slide release. The files LowerEFSRX, LowerWESRX, will be for extended unbent slid releases. Next choose the upper, Upper and UpperFPG will be for the LowerEF, LowerEFSR, LowerWE, LowerWESR lower files. The files of UpperX and UpperXFPG will be for the Files LowerEFSRX and LowerWESRX. The difference between the files of Upper and UpperFPG is one has the FPG lettering on it while the other will be blank. All the other files should be compatible with any lower and upper files or components of the original FPG. Printing Specifications Part name, resolution, infill, infill pattern, support structure Lower, 0.3 mm, 60%, cubic, line support Upper, 0.3 mm, 60%, cubic, line support Stock, 0.3 mm, 30%, line supports BackCover, 0.3 mm, TriggerGuardA/B, 0.2 mm, Button, 0.2 mm, BackSight, 0.2 mm, Clip, 0.2 mm, FGA, 0.2 mm FGB, 0.2 mm Grip, 0.3 mm MagRelease, 0.2 mm ChargingHandle, 0.2 mm ChargingHandleHolder 0.2 mm, Connector, 0.2 mm, Trig, 0.2 mm Assembly Instructions Clean any support structure and fit pins to holes. Test fit pieces to make sure everything fits together and low or no friction between moving parts. Remove screw under back part of slide and remove cover. Remove slide fire selector and replace with slim fire selector, 18c only. Watch out for small pin and spring in fire selector. Take out recoil spring and barrel to access the front sight screw and remove it along with the front sight. Put screw holding back sight spacer in, the screw might be difficult to fit at first. Return barrel and recoil spring into slide. Put hammer assembly into back along with trigger bar. The WE version will require a cut down pin to hold the hammer assembly in and extra screw near the back of the assembly. The pin can be a pain to get it all lined up properly. Put pin in to hold trigger bar spring. Install trigger with spring in middle. EF version might require the pin holding the trigger bar spring moved to tension the trigger spring. Use the trigger pin to hold the trigger while putting the slide release in. Put grip hinge pin in to test if the trigger bar can activate the hammer. The EF version might require the trigger bar to be filed down so it can activate the hammer. We version, put the spring in the slot on the middle and put pin in the side until it holds in the spring. EF version, put the flat spring in the bottom of the lower frame and line up with the hole. Put small screw in bottom to hold flat spring in. It might be tough to get it in and if it doesn't hold it in find a bigger screw. If the screw is too long it might need to be cut down. Put the slide retention bar in from the side. Hold the connector and spring to the lower frame in the back making sure one leg of the spring fits in the hole on the connector. Insert the pin carefully, a smaller pin guide might be required to get it to fit in. The connector should be under tension and flip to the back. Hold the stock upside down and fit the spring one of the legs into the other hole in the connector. Apply tension by holding the spring down, the other leg will rest on the underside of the stock. A small pick or screwdriver might be required to get it to fit properly. Insert the pin in until all the way in and hit holds the spring. Get a rubber band and fold the stock in, use the rubber band to keep the stock from folding out. Get the back cover and insert the shorter end into the lower frame top back. The longer arm of the spring will fit in the back cover. push them together and look back to make sure the spring legs are not sticking out. Put the pin in the back cover hole and line up with the hole on the lower frame. Some pushing down might be required to align the spring with the pin. Test the back cover tension and that it moves back to cover the stock and lower frame. Pull the rubber band off to test if the back cover fits and holds the lower to the stock. Get grip and put spring in back, put clip in and insert pin. Push in clip to make sure it resets back. Push mag release in and line up glock mag release spring to top of grip. Make sure there's enough for the spring to fit in the mag release notch. Cut the excess off of the spring sticking out from the grip. Make sure it's flush with the grip with no sharp end pointing out. Insert mag to test if it will hold. Remove grip hinge pin from lower and insert grip. Insert the grip hinge pin to hold the grip in. Test to make sure the clip holds the grip in place. Line up the holes on the trigger guard, the notch on will be on top. Insert pin to hold trigger guard together, cut to fit if the pin is too long. Insert pin into lower to hold trigger guard in place while putting spring in. The notch will face forward to accommodate the spring. Insert pin all the way to secure the spring and trigger guard. Connect the back bottom of the trigger guard to the grip. Depress the clip to fold in the grip and trigger guard to make sure it all fits, there's no friction and that it folds out. Next will be the foregrip. Make sure the pin fits in both the arm and lower before inserting it, this part can break easily. Make sure it is lined up with the arm forward, use the pin to hold in the arm while inserting the spring. One leg of the spring will fit in the notch on the arm and the other will fit in the notch on the lower. Insert pin to secure the arm and spring together, make sure the pin is flush with the sides of the arm. Use a rubber band again around the lower to hold down the arm in the folded position while putting in the foregrip handle. This part might be a little tougher than the others. Insert the spring let pointing at a 90° angle into the foregrip handle. There should be a hole to put the other leg of the spring in while fitting it into the lower. A smaller guide pin might be required to get the holes to line up. Insert the pin into the lower and through the foregrip handle. Make sure it folds back out when released. Remove the rubber band from the locking arm to test if it locks together properly and to make sure it folds in to the space in the lower. Fold the foregrip in and the grip to make sure it fits together. Put slide on lower to make sure it cycles and a unloaded mag to check if it works. Last part, the upper. Put the charging handle in the side, the ambi charging handle will take some force to get it to fit in. The ambi will have the one side that requires a handle fitted over it and a 3d printed pin fitted into that. Put the charging handle carrier into the upper where the handle will fit in a notch. The charging handle and carrier should not have much friction and might require sanding for a better fit. The button and metal rod should be heat fitted together. Heat up the end of the metal rod with a lighter and insert it into the hole on the button. Make sure it's straight and let it cool, securing the rod to the upper release button. Put the long compression spring around the metal rod and insert in into the charging handle carrier. If a long spring can't be found then shorter springs could work if they're the same size and not too loose around the rod. Push the end with the button into the hole in the back of the upper. Pull charging handle to make sure the button stays in place and the charging handle moves back to the front with the tab sticking out the front. Fit the upper and lower together where the holes on the upper fit into the pegs sticking out of the lower. The back should fit together and the button should lock the two together. Some sanding might be required if it doesn't lock or fit together. Fold stock in to the lower and make sure it all fits and locks together. Some cutting or sanding might be required. Pull the charging handle to make sure it all unfolds and locks. Test the charging handle on the slide function and test with a mag that has no bbs in it to test blowback function. If it all checks out and works then do a shooting test with a couple of bbs in the mag. Common issues and fixes 1. Common areas that break are the thin section that holds the locking arm for the foregrip, be careful when cleaning off support structure and fitting the pin. 2. Another area for failure is the back cover breaking off of the lower and spring pushing out of the hole and hitting slide. 3. The main fold springs eventually breaking the connnector, it's only a matter of time till it breaks. Unless you can cast one out of metal or a stronger filament. 4. Some sanding and cutting might be required on parts that have too much friction. 5. WE extended mag will need the nub filed off the back to slide in the grip magwell or it will catch and not work properly. 6. The upper retention button will not stay in the metal rod. Use a lighter to heat metal rod up and insert it into the button, make sure to keep it straight as possible and let it cool. 7. I can't find a long compression spring for in between the charging handle and button. Use shorter compression springs that loosely fit around the metal rod. If it's not possible to find the same size of compression springs, print and use spacers so springs don't slip around each other. 8. The retaining clip that holds the grip and lower together can break around the thin edges. Replacing with a thinner wire diameter spring might help but could cause issues with it staying latched. 9. Mags won't go in when unfolding. Pull the charging handle back a little when unfolding. The mag lips stick out and have trouble going into the slide when it's full forward. 10. Part X breaks easily. Increase the infill percentage and use the cubic infill pattern to increase strength. Could also be a issue with the brand or type of filament.

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