IKEA RepRap LINNMON/ADILS

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This Design Is Outdated. For Archival Purposes Only. ***** Final Update ***** March 19Th, 2016 ******************** I Resolved The Only Major Issue (Idlers) By Removing Any Printed Parts. I Used Fender Washers On Top And Bottom Of 2 Bearings On A M3 X 40Mm Screw Drilled Into The Upper Tabletop Thereby Bracing It At 2 Points Instead Of 1. Now That The Idlers Stay Perpendicular, There Are No Anomalies In The Layers, And Every Line Comes Out Smooth W/O Any Wobble. I'Ve Taken This Project As Far As Its Gonna Go, And I'M Quite Satisfied W/ The Results. Aluminum Tubing + Pla Makes Sense For Larger Builds Based On This Project. Its Not For Everyone, But It Is A Viable Alternative In My Opinion. The Front Bearing Is Slightly Loose And Makes A Bit Of Noise On Fast Moves, But The Quality Of The Print Is Not Affected. Here Is Why You Should Never Build This Thing: The 75 X 60Cm Linnmon Tabletops Are No Longer Available From Ikea, You'D Have To Go Even Bigger At 100 X 60Cm. That Won'T Affect The Movement But It'Ll Be Even Bigger, And This Thing Is Already Pretty Ridiculous. I Don'T I Think Posted All The Right Parts On Thingiverse To Successfully Make This Thing. The Fact Is, I Have Thousands Of Designs And Can'T Remember Which Ones I Printed Or Which Ones Even Worked. There Is Little To No Maintenance For This Printer, But When You Do Have To Access The Xy Steppers, It Becomes A Real Hassle And Requires A Considerable Amount Of Patience. ************************************************************************************** Having Said That, I Really Don'T Want Anyone Wasting Their Time On This Thing. It Was A Proof Of Concept That Has Become My Main 3D Printer. I'Ve Disassembled My Old Printer And Have Designed A New Frameless, Smaller, More Conventional 3D Printer Which I Will Post To Thingiverse In The Next Week Or So. That One Is Designed To Be More Straight-Forward, Has Both Bowden And Direct, And Uses 8Mm Shafting + Lm8Luu. It Uses The Same Movement For Xy But Will Be Much More Simplified And Accessibility Will No Longer Be An Issue. Stay Tuned, And Thanks For Checking This Thing Out. ************************************************************************************************ Moved Temporary Z-Axis To Side-To-Side Instead Of Front-To-Back. Got Some Front Bearing Noise Which I'Ll Address Soon, And Still Having Issues On Retract And Fast Move Leaving Artifacts Behind. Swapped Out 1.7A 0.9Degree/Step Motor For 1.2A 1.8Degree/Step Motor For The Extruder. Somehow The 0.9 Steppers Can'T Keep Up W/ The Information Being Sent To Them And Just Panic. I'Ll Look Into That Too, 'Cause Ideally I'D Want Those On Xy Since They'Re Much Smoother. I Can Always Change Stepping To 1/8 Instead Of 1/16 But I'D Rather Understand Why. 2 Ikea Linnmon Tabletops Connected By 4 Adils Legs. This Is Done By Inverting The Height Adjustment Feet. I'Ll Explain Later And Consolidate The Other Things I Uploaded Into One. Z-Axis Is Temporary As Are Many Other Parts. Very Wip. Don'T Attempt To Build This Thing Yet Until I Publish A Bom. I Have A Few Ideas For This Printer, Including Floating On Just 1 Tabletop W/O Any Legs... Maybe Even Cutting A Whole In The Top And Attempting Direct Drive Instead Of Bowden. Since Its Rather Big, The Sky'S The Limit. For Now I Need To Modify The Platemounts To Include A M3 Nut The Idler Pin Can Screw Into So Its Braced At 2 Points In Stead Of Just One (Won'T Be Pulled Toward The Stepper). Also I Already Have A Stepper Plate W/ Endstop Holes At Either End For Endstop Mounting For A Cleaner Design. Additionally I Have A Belt Snap In Mechanism I'D Like To Try Out In The Near Future. The Z-Axis Is Very Temporary And That Has To Get Redone To Use The Adils Legs As Smooth Rods (If Possible--I Failed Miserably In My Previous Attempts). Cable Management, Control Box, And Lighting Will Be Worked On Next.

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