Fully parametric Y-adaptor for dust extraction - PROTOTYPE

Description

Do you need a completely custom Y-connector for the dust collection on your router table, table saw, mitre saw (with mop-up "big gulp" inlet behind it).. or something else? Are you able to use Fusion (a free hobbyist account is available to anyone.. at least at the time of writing) or some other CAD app capable of using F3D or STEP files? Then try this. BEFORE WE BEGIN: Now this model does work for me.... most of the time. I have CLEARLY stated the "prototype" status in the title. However, no matter what I do, when it comes to adjusting the model through the power of parameters "after the fact", the sad reality remains that there are many combinations of parameters that WILL break the model. This is because combining Fusion's "pipe", "loft", and "shell" functions in a parametric way is not always going to behave the way you hope or expect when all the features are recalculated during a change. In fact, the WAY in which you adjust those numbers, the order in which you change them, and the size/direction/extent of those changes can make and/or break the model. Don't panic, the undo function is your friend! This CAN save you a lot of time, even if you have to have a few goes at adjusting it, particularly over modeling it from scratch for each variation you might need. WHY USE THIS MODEL? Being parametric, you can customize pretty much ALL dimensions from scratch in 60 seconds or less, doing nothing more than entering the dimensions/token angle in. Once done, have a look at the model (particularly where the two pipes merge) then simply export the STL/3MF/whatever file to your slicer of choice. You can be printing in next to no time. (Specific instructions included below) Tapered, friction fit sockets so you can attach it to the outside of existing dust ports and pipe work (for maximum airflow)... you can also reverse the taper and INSERT it into a pipe or bottle opening too with a little thought. WHY WOULDN'T YOU USE THIS MODEL? This model can't be used in a simple "download > slice > print" procedure. It has to be customized to your needs. To do that, you need a CAD app capable of editing Fusion360 files (F3D), and I've had requests for step files too, so maybe other CAD apps can work with the included step file too. While Fusion is free for hobby use, it's quite powerful and won't run on slow computers very well... if at all. So there's some concerns with compatibility there. Modern Windows/Mac computers are supported... but it's QUITE a big download... so if you're on a mobile and you're almost out of quota... that could be a problem. If you expect a perfect result without any effort or tinkering with this model, then perhaps you should stick to non-parametric models. I say this to prevent stress for everyone, including you, dear reader. However, I hope those who can "give it a try" find great success. HOW DO I USE THE F3D FILE? Open the f3d file in Fusion360. While in "Design mode" Hit the FX button > user parameters... if you're not using full-screen/maximised window (or just haven't added the parameter button to the tool bar) then the FX button may not be there. In that case: Click: solid >modify > parameters > user parameters ...and adjust/enter the values as needed. The parameter names are explained in my uploaded image. Simply enter your (carefully measured and noted) measurements for the ports/pipes/whatever. Adjust the diameters of all the points on the adaptor, and adjust the distances between them to taste. The length of the main (straight) pipe does NOT include the sockets on either end. It's very easy to exceed the build volume of smaller printers. Please keep this in mind. :~) For the bent (off shoot) second branch, the length is determined by the combination of the bend radius, and the bend angle. You want to avoid having ANY part of the second branch's socket (including any part of the loft, and ESPECIALLY the taper still inside the main (straight) pipe. Once you've bent it into the shape you want (perhaps literally).... you're set to export. To do that, I just right click on the body name (in the browser section on the left side of the screen) then select export mesh > save that as an STL/3MF/whatever, and slice it up accordingly using your slicer software of choice. Please note: If you're a user of the original AnkerMake slicer instead of the beta AnkerMake Studio which is Prusa Slicer based, then please note you should export as STL because the AnkerMake slicer app doesn't handle 3MF files. PrusaSlicer and Cura based slicer users should be fine with 3MF files. IF THERE ARE ANY QUESTIONS/FEEDBACK/ETC? Now, I am always happy to hear constructive feedback. However, I've had some.... interesting experiences with people asking about my models. So here's the situation: 1. Parametric models can break. If you have seen my instructions, diagrams, etc, please realise that I've done EVERYTHING I can to help you to use this file, after eliminating the design-based bugs. Unfortunately, I can't fix Fusion's occasional quirkiness, and there are some rules/limits to what you can do in parametric adjustments. Please keep this in mind. 2. I don't get paid for this, my "free time" is often measured in single-digit minutes between other tasks. I am not able to teach you "all things Fusion", and if you use any explicit language when contacting me, I'll ignore you. I'm saddened by the fact that I've had to explain this to some. 3. The reason I have shared this model, is because I expect YOU to set the parameters for yourself. It's no good asking me to adjust my model to your specs.... (those who have asked, have rarely given me a complete set of exact specs, anyway). The parameters should be self-explanatory, please see the included diagram...but to ensure your success, I'll add some suggestions here and there based on my notable experiences/helpful feedback... if any come up: "How wide should you set your tapered sockets?" I generally find that most 3D printers need between 0.15mm and 0.25mm extra "room" on sockets to ensure you can get around a port or pipe. So if you're inserting ports and pipes INTO this adaptor (as intended) then the "socket diameters" at the ends need to be a little wider by 0.15mm at least. The "tapered" diameters are supposed to narrow down below the measured pipe/duct, to grip tightly to the outside diameter. So I generally reduce the taper diameter by as much as 0.3mm or even 0.5mm BELOW whatever is being inserted into it. This ensures a tight friction fit, and accounts for any wear/tear on the pipework or dust port. Note: The taper distance between the socket diameter and taper diameter also helps to control the "steepness" of the tapering that both holds the join together, and seals it. A 20mm taper distance is best suited for the ends of pipes/ports. Whereas longer handles on shop vacuums might benefit from a longer/gentler taper distance. I highly recommend using longer tapers where possible, keeping in mind the overall size of the adaptor, and limited build volumes in 3D printers. "Should I print this standing up, or laying down?" The truth is, "it depends". Your printer's capabilities will be important. Those of you with multiple extruders (particularly dissolving support materials) can do whatever you like. However, the shape of your final adaptor will also play a major role. If it's short, and the angles are favourable (more vertical, less horizontal) then a vertical layout can save a TON of support materials. That said, horizontal will suit a number of situations too. I hope this helps with your DIY endeavours.

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