creality k1 actively heated chamber

Description

So first of all before someone sues me, this is not really a guide more a description of my journey on how i did it. if something goes wrong you could electrocute yourself / burn something down (possibly your house) I DID NOT FORCE YOU TO DO THIS MODIFICATION TO YOUR PRINTER YOU ARE THE ONLY ONE WHO IS RESPONSIBLE !!! so now the boring part of this is out of the way lets het started. this is a pretty sketchy but really cheap way on concerting your creality k1 to active heated chamber, if you are willing to spend more money you could do this a little safer. i used a hair dryer from east germany that i got for free, as the heat source i wont incloude a picture because you probably wont find an other one, the adapter i made ( ach-in v1.step ) is for this it has a 45,00 mm inside diameter so if you find a hair dryer that has a nozzle that fits in it it should be compatible. when finding your hair dryer some paramerers i would recomend: test if it has a heat stop switch you need one that dosent have one (yes this is one fire rysk), mine is 350w this is on the low end powerwise as i cant really get into the 70C (in the future i will update for a 750w space heater) but you also might melt something you dont want so too hot is not good. so mechanically the hot air will come through the back fan ( you need to reverse that fan ) there is a fan shroud so the hot air wont blow into a specific spot. the hair drier is controlled by 2 12v relays i got from a moped i sold for parts. (the printer operates on 24v so 2 is needed in line) the 220v is let through one of this relays (yes its not ideal but its cheap), if you want a more solid option get something like TRA-23D10K i dont have one but by specs it looks better (this would solve a rare bug that is a real fire hazard, i think. i will write about it later) so the pins i used from the motherboard is PC7 photo of it is included, so you can find it. btw both parts should be ABS to not melt (i used a pla fan shroud for a few days it wasnt a fire hazzard but it bent out of shape and blocked the bed from moveing) so now the mechanical parts are ready lets get to the code so we are using watermark control that should only do 0/max% but there is a bug when for some reason i dont understand it goes to 30% this is bad as the printer dose this by only providing the 24v to the pins 30% of the time (with a volt meter this looks 7,2v but for our use this could be fatal) this bug causes the relays to switch between on and off real fast (at least you will hear this from far) this causes spark in the 220v that melts the relays, this is a fire risk ( this is why i think a solid state relay would be better, but i dont have one ) (btw from my experience this bug only happens when setting the temp manually so not while printing). so for the code i added all my printer files you can copy all of this over, but i have an LDO orbiter v2 so that needed config changes BTW yes you need to run a real unlocked klipper on your printer here is a guide for it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wg9sQPXQnSE back to work. you need to add this to your printer.cfg [heater_generic heater_chamber] heater_pin: PC7 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 125 max_power: 1 control: watermark max_delta: 2.0 pwm_cycle_time: 0.0166 [duplicate_pin_override] pins: PC5 [verify_heater heater_chamber] max_error: 120 check_gain_time: 20 hysteresis: 5 heating_gain: 2 [temperature_fan chamber_fan] pin: PC0 max_power: 1.0 shutdown_speed: 1 kick_start_time: 0.5 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 control: watermark max_delta: 2.0 min_temp: 10 max_temp: 150 target_temp: 40 and remove some off [temperature_sensor chamber_temp] sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 125 [temperature_fan chamber_fan] pin: PC0 cycle_time: 0.0100 hardware_pwm: false max_power: 1 shutdown_speed: 0 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 70 control: watermark max_delta: 2 target_temp: 35.0 max_speed: 1.0 min_speed: 0.0 [temperature_sensor chamber_temp] sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 125 [duplicate_pin_override] pins: PC5 [temperature_sensor chamber_temp] sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 125 [duplicate_pin_override] pins: PC5 [temperature_fan chamber_fan] pin: PC0 cycle_time: 0.0100 hardware_pwm: false max_power: 1 shutdown_speed: 0 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PC5 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 70 control: watermark max_delta: 2 target_temp: 35.0 max_speed: 1.0 min_speed: 0.0 [duplicate_pin_override] pins: PC0, PC5 [output_pin fan1] pin: PC0 pwm: True cycle_time: 0.0100 hardware_pwm: false value: 0.00 scale: 255 shutdown_value: 0.0 you need to check my config files but it looked something like this. XD i also changed the gcode macro but that was unsuccessful so there is no wait for chamber temp, if somebody figures that out do a remake, (but you have to rewrite my stuff in an understandable format XDD) also there is no control for the chamber temp from the printer screen and if you start a print from there the chamber heater wont turn on. i dont care enough about this problem to solve it. from web it works. now that this should be working you need to tweak your slicer. I am useing prusaslicer. you need to add: SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=heater_chamber TARGET=[chamber_temperature] M140 S0 M104 S0 START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[first_layer_temperature] BED_TEMP=[first_layer_bed_temperature] and remove M140 S0 M104 S0 START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[first_layer_temperature] BED_TEMP=[first_layer_bed_temperature] this is all i did, and again this could catch fire anytime and if you touch those relays the wrong way 220v will electrocute you, if you make this modification you accept all the responsibility fot that. if someone remixes this with an actual guide that would be great, English is not my first language and i am slightly retarded, so i am not the best a wrighting. if you have questions please wright a comment, i will try to check up on this regularly.

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