Yet another bowden coupler (PC4-M6, PC4-M10)
Description
All of PC4-M6 I tried have some flaws: - Wrong thread pitch or diameter - Easily breakable - Designed for filament coming off the tube, not into it - It has countersink on 4mm to 2mm transition - Filament could clog or catch an edge of the tube, especially on the end of the spool where filament bends a lot - This forces you to countersink the tube too - Even if you do it you're not entirely safe So I designed that one with flat transition from 4mm to 2mm which works better even without countersinking the tube. And since tapered thread was actually hardest part I did PC4-M6 with countersink and PC4-M10 with tube pass-through too. So you have: - PC4-M6 with flat transition to use on extruder motor side - PC4-M6 with angled transition to use on hotend side - PC4-M10 with 4mm all the way - Tightening nut, which is universal for all three. When printing: - Use concentric infill or high number of walls. - Print with M6 thread on the bottom with brim and tree supports.
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