Zone Mortalis Like modular terrain pack for 28mm wargames

Description

I recently got back into Warhammer after many years away, and after painting some marines I decided I wanted something different, so bought the Necromunda Hive War box with 2 gangs and some Zone Mortalis Terrain pieces. The terrain was interesting, but 4 things about it annoyed me. 1) It was hard to paint the panels on the walls and columns a contrasting colour without a lot of precise brush work 2) Placed on the game mat the walls and columns could too easily be knocked or slid around 3) The walls and columns were different lengths which limited the placement options on the mat if you wanted it to line up with the floor 4) I wanted more but it costs how much! But I have a 3d printer, so I thought I’d print some so I looked around for some free STLs. The STLs I found weren’t 100% to liking though so I fired up Blender and got to work editing existing STLs and making new ones. I might have got a bit carried away… This is a pack of 98 STLs for modular terrain that is designed for games like Necromunda, Killteam, Warhammer 40k and other 28mm scifi games that would suit small scale skirmish action in grimdark industrial terrain. I started with Zone Mortalis Terrain Pieces (28mm scale) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2609090 by eberleg so this is technically a remix, though there’s not a lot left of the originals, and I added a whole lot more original stuff (There are 98 STLs in the pack). The set includes the basic wall and column pieces, but these now have separate interior panels, with optional greebles on them. This way the panels can be painted/base coated separately and then glued to the wall or column, saving a lot of paint time. The basic walls and columns have also been edited (quite a lot) to look more like GWs ones (but not exactly the same) and have more details, they are also the same height as plastic GW ones, but are now 2 inches (50.8mm) long (this is different from the GW ones). You can place these on a terrain mat or game board as you like. But just placing them on a table isn’t what I wanted, I wanted something more secure, so I designed a set of floor pieces with cross shaped slots in them. Then, with a small adaptor piece, you can slot the walls and columns into the floors. Also, with an adaptor you can stack them on top of each other. To work with these, there’s a set of 9 different platforms (1-7 are cosmetic designs, one has slots to fit into various supports and one is just left blank), which can either slot into the floor, or the tops of the walls/columns to make walkways and make the game board more 3 dimensional. To allow you miniatures to get up to these upper platforms there’s stairs and ladders, and frames with supports for catwalks and bridges between the upper walls and columns) To add more flavour, there’s also a few designs of doors (door frame and door are separate so you can open or close them), railings, barricades (which can be slotted onto a platform, railing or free standing with an adaptor piece. Plus there’s a pipe system and a chemical tank for all your toxic sludge needs. Everything is designed to fit into the 2” grid so you can place stuff wherever you like. I hope that makes sense, the pictures may help, but I hope it’s fairly logical which pieces slot into what. As much as I would like the pieces to snap together like Lego, the tolerances required for that are outside of what a consumer 3d printer can do (well what mine can do anyway). I’ve put in some wiggle room into all the pieces so they should fit, but parts that are too tight may need adjustment with a file or sandpaper, and ones that are a bit loose can be held with blue tack, or a bit of superglue (let it dry thoroughly first) on the connector to make it wider. But for some pieces, like stairs and catwalks and the panels inside the walls and columns, I really recommend gluing them together, cheap superglue will work fine on PLA. You can leave all the parts modular or make tile pieces as you see fit The basic walls and columns and there panels can be printed without support, but a lot of the other pieces will need some, for the platforms I used regular grid supports tuned to let them pull away fairly easily, and for most other parts I used tree/organic supports on the higher cross pieces, using paint on supports can help as most little details like bolts sticking out from parts don’t really need support. I recommend printing the pipe and tank parts vertically. For the floor pieces these really need to be flat, so don’t rip them off the print bed when the print finishes as they are still warm and can deform a little. Just remove the bed with them still on, place it on flat surfaces, put some weight on the parts and leave it to cool for 20-30 minutes. This way they should stay perfectly flat. I printed all the parts on my Qidi X-Max3 mostly at .2 layer height with 2 or 3 walls and about 10-15% infill using JAYO PLA Meta. Almost all parts can be printed on a small printer apart from the ZML_floor_slots_6x3 and ZML_floor_slots_6x6, but if your printer can’t fit those on it, just print multiple copies of the 3x3 or 4x4 floors. All the parts are designed for an FDM printer and have been test printed. Will they work on a resin printer? I don’t know, probably, but I can’t be certain as I don’t have one to test them on.

Statistics

Category

Tags