FPV drone 65mm
Description
This is the model I finished. Frame 65mm, propellers 35mm. Variant 2 is a preliminary variant, creative search. The canopy here is technologically simple - just printed on a photopolymer printer. But it is complicated in shape and heavy, 6g. Here in attempts to reduce the weight and was born variant number 3. The canopy is now carbon, and I cut out my own frame, lighter than the purchased one. I got rid of the external receiver, to make the model lighter I transferred the transmitter to ELRS. But I left the sound and light, they are important here. On such a micromodel it certainly looks like a swimming pool on Boeing. But have you tried looking for one in the grass? I did, and it can be too hard to find it, and sometimes too easy to step on it. I chose the flight controller plate because it's got ipx4 connectors soldered on it. A smd antenna or vibrator on the board is no good. They will not work under the roof of electrically conductive carbon fiber. Or rather they will somehow work due to reflection and interference, everything there is not absolutely shielded, but it is unreliable and not far away. That's why it was important to lead the radiating elements out to fresh air with pieces of cable, as it is usually done with any antennas. It turned out that this board is optimized for 2s voltage, from 1s it starts motors not very reliably, not every time. However, it is possible to fly, it did not take off at once, clicked the arming again, and still flew. I put lighter blades, launched at 2s. Risky of course, the manufacturer in the specifications writes that the working voltage of the motors 1s. But in fact they work, although I try not to overuse prolonged full throttle so far. Well, if I burn it, I'll know the actual limit of the engines. Yes, by the way, it will be necessary to impregnate the windings with organosilicon varnish, if I violate the manufacturer's instructions, putting the motors at an uncalculated power, then it is necessary to strengthen their standard construction additionally. Impregnated windings will long term withstand 200 degrees, and briefly, all 300 easily. But what about the magnets, they start to lose strength already at 80, and at 200 they are destroyed. And nothing - they are separated from the hot coil by air thermal break. The black case will radiate and the rushing airflow will convectively carry the heat away from the magnets. And never on the magnets will be 200 even at 300 on the coil. Which of course will not be, because the impregnated coil will take the heat to the body and frame by conduction. As a result, the plan is to burn tens of amperes in this motor and get the corresponding power and speed. Yeah. That's what I'll add to my todo list now. PS I'd like to apologize for the enthusiastic fantasist who wrote the last paragraph yesterday. All his figures, except for the reference ones, of course, should be halved. First of all, an air gap of a fraction of a millimeter cannot be considered a reliable thermal insulator. Maybe tens of degrees it will hold back, but a hundred degrees never. “Tens of amperes” - remove the plural. By over-increasing the chirp rate, I'll just go into saturation and get too much heat that I can't do anything with and no mechanical thrust at all. Otherwise, the idea is a good one. Only thing I need is a good quality battery now. I've never seen a battery that has the C rating honestly written on it. PPS Enough. Or instead of a commentary on the project now will turn out a book.
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