120mm Radial Fan Diffuser
Description
# 120mm Radial Fan Diffuser This **120mm Radial Fan Diffuser** is designed to diffuse and quiet airflow from a standard 120mm fan, making it ideal for applications like 3D printer enclosures where reducing drafts and noise is critical to prevent print warping. ## Key Features - **Dimensions**: 180mm diameter, 35mm height. - **Recessed Mounting Holes**: Four recessed holes (9mm diameter) allow M4 socket cap screws to be seated 11mm up from the bottom (recessed by 24mm). The required screw length depends on your fan; consider 11mm + the fan's flange thickness. For reference, M4x16mm screws with nuts worked in testing, but verify based on your setup. - **Air Diffusion and Noise Reduction**: Features 44 'z' or 's'-shaped baffles oriented against the fan's airflow to "scoop" air into redirection channels. - Outer edge spacing: ~10.383mm. - Inner edge spacing: ~5.8mm. - Baffle thickness: ~2.8mm. - **Central Cone Design**: A tapered cone (100mm base to 28.5mm nose) directs airflow smoothly to the baffles. The nose sits flush with the bottom of the diffuser when mounted on a fan. ## Printing Recommendations - **Orientation**: Print in the standard orientation (cone pointing down) with no supports if your printer is well-tuned for bridging. The chamfered central cone limits bridge spans to 10–15mm, making this feasible for most machines. - **Alternative Orientation**: Flip the model upside-down (cone pointing up) for easier bridging of the baffles. However, the recessed bolt holes may require supports unless settings are adjusted to avoid printing mid-air. ### A Word of Caution This design requires a meticulous approach to avoid catastrophic printing issues, particularly when using warp-prone materials: - **Critical Hazard**: If the edges of the central cone warp during the bridging layers, the nozzle may strike the warped edges. This can lead to severe consequences: - **Best Case**: The impact dislodges the central cone from the bed, ruining the print. - **Worst Case**: The adhesion fails so traumatically that it delaminates a chunk of glass or PEI from your build plate, permanently damaging your equipment. To minimize the risk: - Ensure **excellent bed adhesion** using a suitable material and adhesion aids (e.g., gluestick, magigoo, or similar products). - Dial in your **cooling and bridging settings**, as even minor curling can have dire consequences. - Consider using **lower-warp materials** like PLA or PETG if you’re hesitant to risk your build plate. #### Clean Alternative Approach While the **Alternative Orientation** noted above introduces its own challenges, it provides a clean, efficient way to avoid many of the issues associated with bridging. To succeed: - Take into consideration the potential need for **narrow, deep supports** under the recessed bolt holes. - Adjust **hyperparameters**, such as configuring your slicer to print "outer to inner," which reduces the likelihood of mid-layer warping or nozzle strikes. Although this approach requires additional preparation and experimentation, it can yield a **cleaner, stronger print** overall. The judicious thickness of the panels and the tolerances in the design mean this extra effort is not strictly necessary for success. However, for those who enjoy fine-tuning their process and are willing to put in the legwork, the payoff can be worth the added complexity. This model rewards careful preparation with excellent results for those willing to take on the challenge. Approach confidently—and thoughtfully.
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