Eevee Coin (Pokemon TCGP)

Description

Tl;dr: I’ve made an Eevee coin from the Pokemon TCG Pocket app. I’ve included a whole bunch of info if you want to print it as accurately as possible to how it looks in the app, but at the end of the day, you can probably get away with looking at the picture and assigning the colors however you want. There’s the regular 3mf for regular purposes or a “fancy” one for 0.2 mm nozzles, especially if you have an effect plate. Their information is directly below, followed by more specific info if you’re interested. Other coins can be found in this collection: https://www.thingiverse.com/carlthepumpkinman/collections/41658549/things Regular 3mf: For people that just want the coin with minimal hassle. 0.4 mm nozzle, the design is on top to reduce chances of adhesion mistakes messing with it, and there are only 3 layers on the design to reduce filament changes. Higher speeds and a cool plate. 3 sizes included: Regular (30 mm), Large (34.2 mm), Jumbo (51.2 mm). Layer height: 0.28 mm Line width: 0.4 Initial Layer Speed: 50mm/s Outer Wall Layer Speed: 200mm/s Infill: 100% Support: None Fancy 3mf: For people that want a really fancy coin, and aren’t too worried about taking time or filament. 0.2 mm nozzle, the design is on the bottom to be used with an effect plate, 0.08 mm layer height. Slower speeds. 3 sizes included: Regular (30 mm), Large (34.2 mm), Jumbo (51.2 mm). There’s a lot of small pieces that don’t have too much contact with the build plate, so I used a much, much lower speed for the first layer and the walls of the individual pieces, which I found to be necessary for ensuring adhesion, especially on designs with sharp corners and little peninsulas. Layer height: 0.08 mm Line width: 0.22 Initial Layer Speed: 10mm/s Outer Wall Layer Speed: 30mm/s Infill: 100% Support: Rectilinear Intro: This is an Eevee coin, based off of the one that can be found in the mobile game Pokemon Trading Card Game: Pocket. And despite its apparent simplicity, it’s actually a relatively involved model to print with a bunch of settings and options you can choose, so strap in–this description is going to be a long one. Background: I personally collect Pokemon Coins, so I thought it would be interesting to try and print out the ones I found when using Pokemon TCG pocket. I used photo editing software to extract an SVG based off of where there was black and where there was color, and used that to create a 1:1 scale model of what it would look like if it were released in Japan today, with a 30mm diameter and 2mm width. The reverse features the standard Pokemon/Poke Ball symbol at a depth of 0.4 mm (like a real coin), and the obverse features the design at a depth of 2.8 mm. After some experimentation, I found that 2.8 mm was the ideal depth to minimize color bleedthrough from the black filament, but avoided requiring too many color swaps if need be. I separated each of the different colors out to be their own components for ease of sorting down the line. I then exported the entire file as an stl as well as a step file. I then used a color picker to grab the RGB values of the screenshot of the coin from the app (all of them have a shine to them, and I picked the lightest parts of each color), and input those into the color values for the filament into the 3mf files (those colors also listed below). I figured I’d rather be more thorough than less, so I included even small color changes as separate filaments--such as the border surrounding the design vs the outermost border circling the edge that can be found on some coins. As a result, the coins can have anywhere from three colors to ten or more. I made two 3mf files–one for those who just want to print the coins out normally without too much hassle, and a “fancy” version for those who really want to make the highest-quality version possible. I’ve printed both out, and the one in color with the starlight pattern is the fancy one. I printed the not-fancy one in white, just to make sure it was printable. I’ve talked about the specifics of the two below the Tl;dr. Dealing with the multiple colors: Even if you have the capability to print from the 3mf files, the biggest printing decisions you’ll need to make are regarding how you want to print the colors. If you’ve got a multi-AMS system, then you can go ahead and skip this section and just pick one of the 3mf files, but for everyone else, I’ll be discussing how we can approach printing so many colors on one small model. One approach is to just print it all in black and paint it. This is how the actual coins are made, so it has that going for it. Of course, if it only has 4 or fewer colors, a single AMS will do it. One thing you can do to print a coin with five colors is to designate one of the coin colors as “black,” add a pause after the black is done, and then swap the color you designated as black in for the black. Then, the printer will think it’s printing that color in black, when in actuality it’s doing the color you want. Just make sure that whatever color you swap it in for isn’t the one that was printing right before the pause! If it was, the AMS will have it loaded while it’s paused and I don’t know of a way to get it out. If you’re feeling particularly crazy, you could cut the parts off of the coin in your slicer, print them separately, and then attempt to glue them on. I really did not want to deal with that myself, so I didn’t bother modeling them to be assemblable at such a small scale. If you want to try it yourself, though, feel free to let me know, and I’ll give you access to the Fusion files. Most likely, though, I’d recommend doing a combination of designating similar colors to the same filament, and painting the rest. For the sake of thoroughness, I’ve separated even slight color differences as their own components in Fusion, but realistically people won’t have such slightly different shades of filament anyway. Using the trick I detailed two paragraphs above, you can get most of the coins down to a number manageable by a single AMS, and/or you can use paint to get yourself there. Print Instructions: Once you’ve got that all figured out, you need to figure out how to print it. I’ve provided two 3mf files for BambuStudio which if you can use, I highly recommend you do. In short, the one without “fancy” in front of its name prints from the reverse (the black side) up, with 2.8mm layers in order to minimize color swaps by having the colors only take up 3 layers, designed to be used with a 0.4 mm nozzle. The “fancy” one has the design (the colorful part) face down and is designed to be used with a 0.2 mm nozzle. It’s got 0.1 mm layer heights and slower speeds with the obverse face down, intended for an effect plate. I’ve detailed the settings of the two 3mfs up above if you don’t have access to them or just want to read it there. But in general, you need to get the colors properly assigned to your model. You’re probably fine just eyeballing the picture and assigning what filaments you have to the appropriate colors. However, I’ve included the colors I pulled from the pictures below in the order that I used them. As I stated before, I separated each color out as its own component in Fusion. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get the stl to display which color is which, but the step file does, so it might be easier to use that if at all possible. The colors are listed here in the order they are listed for me in Bambu Studio, which hopefully should be the same for you. When the file is split into its component parts (if necessary), each body should have a number and some form of a descriptor–either what part it is (eg, “skin”), what color it is (eg, “pink”), or both (eg, “pink skin”). This, combined with the order the colors are in, should make it easier to assign the proper colors to the proper parts. The one exception is black, which doesn’t have a name and is listed last just as “SOLID.” Colors (RGB): Middle brown 210, 154, 82 White 255, 255, 255, Lightbrown 235, 228, 183 Darkbrown 99, 64, 46 Border 201, 141, 69 Other tips: The model is currently regular size (30mm). If you want it to be Large size (like the ones that used to come out in the West), or Jumbo size (like the ones that currently come out in the West), change the x and y distance to 34.2 or 51.2 mm, respectively, but if you want to print multiple sizes at the same time, be sure that the z height stays at 2 mm (turn off uniform scale). Otherwise, you can set the height of the Large ones to 2.2 mm and the Jumbo ones to 2.4 mm. In my experience with the not fancy ones, supports are unnecessary, even for the jumbo version. However, some of the models can use supports to bridge the gaps in some of the designs. If you print a bunch of the same coins on one plate, the purge-per-unit will be much smaller (this is true of any multicolor print). Funny vid: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Bmy-W-K9XuU Tl;dr:

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