Fully Parametric Travel Case/Road Case/Subwoofer Corner Guard or Corner Protector.
Description
Do you want to protect the corners of travel/road cases, speaker enclosures, crates, instrument cases, tool boxes or storage boxes? Want to be able to tweak the corner guards to your exact specification... in pretty much any way you like in under a minute? Want something that doesn't just have roundover edges/fillets? Would you like to set different thicknesses so you get a few millimetres of clearance from the ground, perhaps ensuring airflow for a retro computer case, or electronics project? Don't mind using a free licence of Fusion or use a CAD app capable of using STEP files? Like informative pictures telling you exactly which parameter does what? Yeah, me too. So I made this... and you're in luck! WHY USE THIS? If you're looking to make your own DIY cases/tool boxes/speaker enclosures... and want to protect it from those bumps that always seem to damage the corners, but you need the X/Y/Z lengths of the corner guard to be exactly the same, or completely different (either situation is actually hard to find commercially) then you can do that. You can set ANY size that fits within the build volume of your printer... or CNC if you prefer subtractive machining. You can use this to make as many variations as you like. Simply export the mesh file for each variant (hopefully with a unique, and identifiable file name) then slice each variant up in your preferred slicer software (if you're printing) or CAM app if you're using a CNC. WHY WOULDN'T YOU USE THIS? Well if you can't run Fusion or CAD app that handles step files... then you're not going to have much luck using the files provided here. You can't just download > slice > print. You have to download > tweak using Fusion/other CAD app to suit your needs> export to mesh file > slice >print. (Instructions included below). HOW DO I USE THE F3D FILE? Open the f3d file in Fusion360. While in "Design mode" Hit the FX button > user parameters... if you're not using full-screen/maximised window (or just have a low-res screen) then the FX button may well be hidden from view. In that case: Click: solid > modify > parameters > user parameters ...and adjust/enter the values as needed. The parameter names are explained in my uploaded image. Simply enter your (carefully measured and noted) measurements for the EXTERIOR of your respective dust port/pipe. Adjust the diameters of all four points on the adaptor, and adjust the size of any fillets to taste. Then I just right click on the body name (in the browser section on the left side of the screen) then select export mesh > save that as an STL/3MF/whatever, and slice it up accordingly using your slicer software of choice. Please note: If you're a user of the original AnkerMake slicer instead of the beta AnkerMake Studio which is Prusa Slicer based, then please note you should export as STL because the AnkerMake slicer app doesn't handle 3MF files. PrusaSlicer and Cura based slicer users should be fine with 3MF files. IF THERE ARE ANY QUESTIONS? The parameters should be self-explanatory, please see the included diagram...but to ensure your success, I'll add some suggestions here and there: PLEASE NOTE: The holes on each of the 3 faces of the corner guard/protector are placed to be in the middle of each face. It's possible that if you have identical X/Y/Z lengths (even if it's just 2 out of 3) the holes will intersect with each other, if you use screws that are too long. If in doubt, leave/take the guard OFF the box/corner entirely, and stick all three screws that you intend to use into the holes of the printed corner protector.. and see if they run into each other. If they do, select shorter screws until they don't. Internal fillets: Now, if you're building a DIY hard case out of wood, it's a REALLY good idea to "break the edge" (by that, I mean a light sand to make damaging the edges more difficult, or better yet, use a router and a suitable round over bit for a more professional finish). Round over bits come in tiny, tight 2mm radius edge making variants (about 1/12 of an inch), all the way to huge 25mm (1") and beyond that have very rounded edges. The internal fillets should ideally match your wood's edges so there's no debris getting in underneath (wood radius larger than the guard's internal fillet) or doesn't sit flush (wood radius too small for the guards internal fillet). Getting it flush will help to strengthen the guards ability to handle impacts. Parametric models can be a bit quirky. If you change one of the values, and it suddenly doesn't look right, the UNDO function is your friend! If you get completely lost, simply close the file without saving it and start again. All of the settings can be adjusted in under 60 seconds, so don't worry if you need a few attempts. It's still MUCH faster than building a model from scratch. Unfortunately, by tweaking one value, you may cause problems with another, particularly when features are moved into the same space as other complex features.... While there are countless variations that work perfectly well, there are also many combinations of values that break it. That's the nature of the beast. I've supplied this file with the expectation that YOU (or someone you know) do your own adjustments. I've done everything I can to make this work for you. That said, if you find something that's fundamentally wrong with the file, please let me know and I'll look at it. Finally, if you find this helpful, or have ideas on how to improve it... I'd love to see a make, or hear your constructive thoughts. If you want to support my prototyping, (my models are usually tested before release) so I can keep making more of these designs, I have a Paypal link in my profile.
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