Mod17 Lightgun

Description

This is a remix of the J17 blaster by Jackmarshall. Full credit goes to him for the original design which can be found here (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6231464) I changed quite a few things. In no particular order - Added a dpad - Added solenoid support which required modifying the main body as well as the top slide - Changed the way the vibration motor mounts - Changed the barrel which holds the camera to have a thread so it's more secure - Changed the way it screws together to use heat set inserts - Made a short stroke trigger for those that want to fire more quickly - Made a few different shell options for different button arrangements - Made a little more room for wires inside the shell - Changed the bottom to accommodate for a shower hose for the aesthetic. - Added a small break out box to allow for pedals, solenoid power and a home button The was modified to use for a fully featured Openfire lightgun that can handle any lightgun game at least reasonably well. This includes games which use more specialised peripherals like Big Buck Hunter, PS2 games like Resident Evil Survivor or Dino Stalker and even the FPS mode of Razing Storm. Print settings Most parts were printed with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer heights and 4 walls (so approx. 2.4mm thick walls) I have no reason to believe that this would not work with a 0.4mm nozzle. Thick bridges should be turned off. Some parts need support and I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND setting "XY separation between an object an its support" to be at least 1mm. Interface layers and such will depend on your particular filament. Brims and other adhesion strategies are fair game too if needed. There are images included of some of the more unusual orientations. - The pump action slider and top slide are both printed vertically with the front of each facing the build plate. They should not need supports printed like this. - It is possible to print both sides of the body with the internal face down on the plate and simple snug supports, however, for a smoother finish it can also be printed vertically with the front of the model on the build plate. This will require organic/tree supports. Printing flat will *mostly* be stronger and will use less filament, but be more difficult to remove supports. Printed vertically will have a smoother finish, be less prone to warping, be easier to remove supports and the posts that hold the microswitches in place will be much stronger, but it will use more filament and be weaker, especially around the trigger guard and where the buttons insert as this is the thinnest part. With the filament I used (ASA) I did not find this to be an issue though and breaking a test print required a lot of force. You can also save a bit of support material by printing both sides together, but it will still be more filament than printing flat. If you don't mind using the extra filament and the filament that you use has good layer adhesion, I do quite like it. Note that the images of the vertical print are from an older version of the STL, but that style of print absolutely still works with the latest versions - Solenoid Carriage can be printed vertically or horizontally, either way it will need a small amount of support material. An important note about the solenoid carriage is that the four holes on the sides and the hole on the top all accept heat set inserts. The hole in the top allows you to set a bolt such that it attaches the plunger of the solenoid to the carriage, however, it allows for a bit of slack/play so that the solenoid and linear bearing do not bind Some parts were printed with very different settings, however. - The dpad is printed at 0.05mm layer heights due to the very shallow curve of the top of the dpad. It can be done with a 0.4mm nozzle or smaller. Make sure to use at least 25% infill and 4-5 horizontal shells. - The barrel is printed with 0.1mm layer heights. Once again, this can be done with a 0.4mm nozzle or smaller. Depending on the filament used, you may need to increase the size by up to 2%. This was also printed with the little wings at the top with support material so that the part that holds the front of the camera would print properly without needing an angle. The regular barrel should work fine to orient the camera in the correct way, however, if it does not work, feel free to try one of the other three orientations. - The trigger was printed with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.1mm layer heights. I assume this would still work with an 0.4mm nozzle. I highly recommend printing this on the smoothest print surface you have. Smooth PEI, glass, garolite etc are all good candidates. I would also recommend 20-25% aligned rectilinear infill as well as rectilinear top and bottom fill. Try to align the trigger so that the infill goes from the top to bottom of the trigger and so that the top infill goes along the length of the trigger. This should make it feel smoother. If you want to go a step further, print it out of a low friction material like PETG or (if you have the last metre of some left, I wouldn't buy any just for this) Nylon. - The pump action stabiliser is once again printed with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.1mm layer heights. The walls are quite thin, but I think a 0.4mm nozzle should still work. There are three different models of slightly different size depending on how dialled in your printer is. I recommend starting with the regular and trying the others if you find it fits poorly. This can also be printed from a low friction material like PETG or nylon like the trigger. I will also state that the solenoid mount and solenoid carriage do not need to be printed, but can be made from 25x3mm aluminium/steel flat bar and 25x10x2mm aluminium/steel square tube instead. Getting the drilling and tapping exactly right for this by hand is quite tricky, but it is possible and may be sturdier if that is your preference. There are also quite a few parts that need to be bought. BOM as I made it - DFRobot IR Camera - RP2040 microcontroller board - 5V Controller Vibration Motor - Use the left one with the larger weight (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32952123110.html?algo_pvid=b888d5c5-081c-4398-bb34-e9699724776a) - JF-1039 Solenoid (Make sure voltage matches power supply) - Power Supply with 2.1mm barrel jack (Make sure voltage matches solenoid) - 40mm MGN9C Linear Rail - Various transistors, resistors, diodes, capacitors etc - check the openfire hardware guide for more information - Through hole 5 way navigation switch for the dpad (https://core-electronics.com.au/thru-hole-5-way-navigation-switch.html) - 7mm*5*0.5mm spring to put between the dpad and the navigation module for a better feel (optional) - 4mm*20mm spring for the trigger - 20 or 22mm*50mm Spring for the pump action - Two microswitches with rollers for the trigger and pump action (https://core-electronics.com.au/micro-limit-switch-roller-lever-2-pack.html?gQT=1) - Shower hose (1.5-2m, I would recommend 2m), large bore if possible (makes it easier to push the cable through, it is not an easy task) - Two 20x15 Brass Threaded Hex Reducing Bushes for each end of the shower hose (I got them from bunnings, for the Aussies out there https://www.bunnings.com.au/brasshards-20-x-15mm-brass-threaded-hex-reducing-bush_p0260437) - 10 Core 20 AWG cable a little bit longer than your shower hose. (Might be able to get away with 22 AWG, but I decided to go overkill) - Plenty of wires to hook up the internals - 28AWG is the minimum for most things, 22AWG is minimum for solenoid power - Buttons appropriate for your build (reminder that the home button on the breakout box is also a 12mm button) - 12mm buttons I used were these ones (https://www.jaycar.com.au/ip67-rated-dome-pushbutton-switch-black/p/SP0656) - 8mm buttons were these ones (https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/push-button-switches/7346827) - 3mm heat set brass inserts - mostly 4mm long, but two 3mm long to mount the linear rail to the solenoid mounting plate - Two M4x6mm Countersunk Bolts to mount the solenoid (https://www.boltandnut.com.au/m4-x-0-70p-coarse-zinc-countersunk-phillips-ph2-machine-screws) - M3x6mm Bolts to mount solenoid plate to main body, pump action slide to slide support, and top slide to solenoid carriage - M3x8-10mm Bolts for everything else - USB C Breakout Board (https://core-electronics.com.au/sparkfun-usb-c-breakout.html?gQT=1) - Panel Mount Barrel Jacks (https://core-electronics.com.au/panel-mount-2-1mm-dc-barrel-jack.html?gQT=1) - Two Panel Mount RCA Jacks for optional pedals (https://www.jaycar.com.au/black-rca-metal-chassis-socket/p/PS0256) - *VERY OPTIONAL* 25x3mm aluminium/steel flat bar if you want to make the solenoid mounting plate metal instead of plastic - *VERY OPTIONAL* 25x10x2mm Aluminium/steel square tube if you wish to make the solenoid carriage out of it. A Few final notes. I built a pair of pedals to go with this, but I simply used the Perfectly Adequate Arcade Pedal mini and wired the microswitch directly to an RCA cable so that it would be compatible with this lightgun There are multiple variations of the body. If you are going with an asymmetrical build as I have in the picture, make sure you pick the appropriate left and right side I wanted to add a mag slap button to reload, similar to the guncon 2, but I couldn't sensibly make it fit in this model. I do want to make a model from scratch in future that does this, but if you can see a way to make it work, be my guest and add it in. Wiring this up is quite difficult. You really need to plan out each wire path and cut the wires to the appropriate length and even then, with the wires I used (which admittedly were rather thick) and the amount of stuff crammed in there, it's quite a tight fit. I know some parts are not super clear on how to construct them. I will add some instructions at some point, however, I wanted to get this out and take a break from this project and I also did not want to dismantle the lightgun for the sake of instructions.

Statistics

Category

Tags