Pergo Bed Stiffeners
Description
This May Work On Printers Other Than A Robo3D/R1/R1 Plus The 8Mm Rod(S) Are 24 Mm Shorter Than Your Glass Length. ** Warning Remember Your Working With Glass! Be Sensible In The Amount Of Correction You Try To Make. If You Apply Too Much Shim You Could Break The Glass. I Some Cases The Glass Is Between $30-$50.00 When I Created My 330Mm Y Rails Upgrade For The Robo 3D Http://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:1154745 I Learned That My Bed Glass Was .02 Mm Lower At A Certain Point That At Other Points. When Your Auto Leveling A Larger Printable Space It'S Expected That You Will Find Larger Variations That When Using A Smaller Area. I Personally Have My Auto Level Routine In The Firmware Reaching Out To Points At 5 Mm And 305 Mm When It Auto Levels The Y Area (This Is A Firmware Config Change). Ok Now For The Fix. If You Did The 330Mm Y Rail Upgrade, You Will Have The Old Standard Length Rails. I Created The (Printed In Red In The Pictures) Rod Holders To Use These Standard Length Left Over Rods For This Design. Print 2 Of The Blocks And Place One Of The Left Over 8Mm Rods In The Holes And Slide The Slots Onto The Glass. This Gives You A Support Bar Which You Can Lift Your Glass In A Location That Has A Low Spot. I Used Some Washers I Had Laying Around To Accomplish This Shim Action. If You Don'T Get The Right Lift To Get You A Perfectly Level Bead Area, Print 2 More Blocks And Use The 2Nd 8Mm Bar You Have. I Personally Printed Mine Is Pla Because The Heated Area Does Not Extend Into The Area Where The Block Sits. If You Upgraded To A 300 Mm Length Bed Heater, You Had Better Use Abs Or Nylon Which Has A Higher Glass Temperature.
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