glass plate holder
Description
When I Got My Printer I Didn'T Want To Destroy The Nice Kapton Foil On The Heated Building Platform. I Bought Two 24,0 X 18,0 Cm Photo Frames (1,99 € Each). Printing A Glass Plate Holder Is A Chicken / Egg Problem. If You Use A Glass Plate You Need A Spacer For The End Stop In Z Direction! I Took An Old Flat Rubber Seal With Nearly The Same Thickness (2,2Mm) As The Glass Plate (2,0Mm) And Just Laid It On The Bed Mounting Of The Z-Axis Spindle. Test If The End Stop Is Triggered Without The Glass Plate :) Level The Bed, Time To Print. Put Some Drops Of Kitchen Oil To The Bed, Take Two Mini Clamps (4 Pieces Package 0,99€ @Obi) And Fix The Glass On Two Opposite Corners. Glue Stick On The Printing Side Helps That Even Your First Print On Glass Is Successful. Every Part Is Printable Without Support. There Is A Mounting Arm, Use A Hex Nut And Fix It On The Thread At The Right Front Corner Bottom Side Of Your Ff Creator Pro. Take An Old Rubber Seal, Put It On Both Sides Of The Glass Corner, And Fix The Holder With A Screw. This Part Will Stay On The Glass Plate Forever. My Print Setup: Glass Plates With A Holder On The Right Front Edge, 5 Drops Of Oil To The Bed If Necessary, Put It On The Fixed Pin At The Bed And Use A Mini Clamp On The Back Left Corner That The Glass Is Pushed Down. The Clamp Can Be Removed When The Adhesion And The Heat Has Built The Oil Film On The Bed Under The Glass Plate. When The Print Is Finished Move It A Little Bit While Pulling It Softly Up. The Adhesion Breaks, You Can Easy Take It Out. When The Glass Gets Colder The Model Pops Down In Most Cases By Itself. Bonus: The Oil Gives You A Much Better Heat Transfer To The Glass. Since There Is "No Endpoint" The Thermal Expansion Doesn'T Produce Stress Or Deformation.
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