Dual E3D Mount for Mono Mendel
Description
####Printer No Longer Owned. Unsupported As Of Feb 2017 This Dual E3D V6 Mount Attaches To The Mono Mendel Carriage From Reprappro. I Have Included My Cad Files So That You Can Adapt It To Your Mounting Carriage If Need Be. Because The New Mount Has A Prox Sensor, I Am Able To Use The Spring That Is Normally Used For Adjusting The Z Axis Calibration For The E2 Height Adjustment. The Difference Between V2 And V3 Is Which Hotend Is Adjustable. In V2 It Is The Right And V3 The Left. ####Bom: X9 M3X25Mm X9 M3 Hex Nuts X1 Spring X2 E3D V6-Bowden: Https://Www.Amazon.Com/Dp/B00Nak9L6Q/Ref=Cm_Sw_Su_Dp X1 18Mm Prox Sensor: Https://Www.Amazon.Com/Dp/B00Nak9L6Q/Ref=Cm_Sw_Su_Dp X1 Dual E3D Mendel Mount With Prox Sensor V2 Or V3 X1 Adj Collar Mount X2 Collar Mount ####Assembly: 1. Complete Post-Processing 2. Add Hex Nuts 3. Assemble Adj Collar Mount 4. Mount To Carriage 5. Mount E1 In Fixed Collar 6. Mount E2 In Adj Collar 7. Mount 18Mm Prox Sensor *Assembly Instructions Bellow* ####Software: I Use Marlin With Auto Bed Leveling. The Nozzles Are 37.9Mm Apart In V2 The Nozzles Are 34.9Mm Apart In V3 My Actual Offsets Were About 1Mm Off From The Cad Values So They Will Take Some Tweaking To Get Right. The Prox Sensor Is Offset By X:30 Y:11 In V2 The Prox Sensor Is Offset By X:28 Y:11 In V3 Be Sure To Adjust Your Z Offset On The Fixed Hotend Before Leveling The Nozzles. I Have My Switch Retraction Amount At 14 And It Has Been Working Well For Me. This Amount Should Be Just Enough So That You Get The Least Amount Of Oozing. Anything Too Much Can Product Clogging. *Actual Offset May Vary* ####Nozzle Offset Calibration: When Calibrating The Nozzle Offset, I Used This Thing: Http://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:401570 As Well As This Thing: Http://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:124450 The First File I Used To Calibrate The Offset In The X And Y Directions. These Settings Are Put Into Your Slicer (I Use Cura). See Featured Picture Above Of My Test Results. *When Plating In Cura, The Outer Wall Was The Part Printed With E2. Therefore Adjustments Were Made To Its Placement Relative To The Center Square.* The Adjustments Are Made Based On The Center Square Location Relative To The Walls. Follow These Rules When Calibrating: Square Is Too Far Right-> Make Your Offset Value More Negative Square Is Too Far Left-> Make Your Offset Value More Positive Square Is Too Far Down-> Make Your Offset Value More Positive Square Is Too Far Up-> Make Your Offset Value More Negative My Offset Values Started At X:-37.9 Y:0. My First Print Has The Square Down And To The Right. As I Dialed In My Calibration, My Values Eventually Settled At X:-38.93 Y:0.82. I Have Not Tested These Rules With V3, But I Imagine They Will Simply Be Opposites Fro The X Calibration And The Same For The Y Calibration. The Second File Is Used To Calibrate The Overlap Setting (Found In Your Slicer), Which Is The Amount The Perimeters Are Overlapped. A Good Setting Will Have The Walls Touching Enough To Fuse Together, But Not Too Much That It Overlaps A Lot.
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