Solidoodle 2 Hot End Cooler (ultralight, ultrasimple)

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Hi, This Is My Solution For Hot End Air Cooling For Solidoodle 2. I Wanted To Avoid Adding Too Much Weight To The Print Head, As Well As Mess With Wiring And Need For Extensive Modifications Of The Print Head. I Used Bigger Aquarium Pump (Pictured) Because It Delivers A Bit More Air Than Smaller Ones. I Used Flexible Modular Hose That You Can Be Downloaded From Thingiverse Http://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:9006 . I Printed Five Segments And Nozzle. The Great Thing About This Modular Hose That Standard Air Hose For Aquarium Fits Right In And I Pushed It Almost All The Way Through Entire Length Of All Five Segments. No Alteration Needed! I Had To Design My Own Bracket That You Can Download. It Will Hold Loc-Line Segment On Its Own (Designed To Snap-On) But I Secured Bend And All Joints With Hot Glue So I Can Print On Higher Speeds. Best Thing To Do Is To Print All Parts (Lic-Line/Nozzle/Bracket) At Once. So Plastic Will Time To Harden On A Vertical Part Of Bracket. Designed Bracket Snaps On The Print Head By Itself, (On Heads Of Preexisting Bolts) But I Used Super Strong Magnets To Keep It Attached For Added Security. There Is A Place That Sells Smaller Quantities Of N52 Grade Magnets Which Are Perfect For This Kind Of Application. Http://Www.Ebay.Com/Usr/Forcefielddesigns Assembly Is Very Simple And Not Intrusive. Not Tools Required! Snap Bracket On Bolts Heads; Secure It With Magnets; Snap Modular House To Bracket; Bend To Desired Position, Secure With Hot Glue (Advised) And You Ready To Go! If Need To Take Off - Remove Magnets, And Pull All Construction Away. That'S It! This Design Handles Fairly Fast Movements And Delivers Air Exactly To The Tip Of Nozzle Preventing Sagging On Overhangs. Sorry For Not Very Clean Prints - I'Ll Clean Raft Later - Just Finish Printing And Assembly And Was Checking How It All Will Work. Thank You! Have Fun! Update: New Version (Mark 2) Will Work With Just 4 Segments Of Flexible Hose (Plus Nozzle) And Will Go Under Frame Of Solidoodle. First Design Would Limit Y Axis Move By Bumping Into The Case Frame (I Discover It During Calibration - This Issue Never Manifested Itself During Prints). As A Result New Design Is Smaller And Lighter. P.S. Check Out Video Of This Thing In Action At: Http://Youtu.Be/Es_Axkm0Zfs

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