Z Axis Mini Mill, Seig x2, Harbor Freight, Grizzly
Description
Updated 03-11-2020! Okay, If You Would Like More Information And To Get An Idea Of What Your About To Do! Check Out Z Axis Mini Mill Link! Http://Www.Littlecarebear.Com A While Back Since I Use This Machine A Lot I Used Metal Parts On My Z-Axis. This 3D Printed Version Is Almost Identical Form Factor Just In A 3D Printed Format! I Have The Metal Parts As G-Code As Well If Your Interested And They Use The Same Items To Make The 3D Printed Version! The Old Z-Axis Had Lots Of Backlash In It Over Time! I Have Not Update Things On This Place In A Long Time! Since I Have My Own Website I Post On! How To Section And The Items Will Be Up Shortly On My Url Again! X And Y Will Have How To Guides As Well! Here To Get You Started Till I Get Time To Add More! I Used: 450Mm 8T 2Mm Lead Screw 30Mm 4M Bolts 4M Nuts 8T 2Mm Lead Screw Nut Nema 23 Motor Few 8Mm Washers 8Mm Thrust Bearing 2X 5/16 Nuts 1X 5/16 Lock Washer 608 Bearing Remove All The Zaxis Stuff. The Gear Rail, Gears, All The Stuff That Gets In The Way Of Leaving The Center Open Where The Zaxis Gear Track Was. This Will Be The New Location Of Your Z-Axis Screw! Get Rid Of Your Spring! Leave The Head To Move Freely Or You Will Have Black Lash Problems! No Air Spings Either! You Will Not Need Either Even With A Tiny Nema 23 The Way This Works! I Do Not Use Any Springs! I Do Not Use And Dampers! I Let The Head Freely Hang From The Lead Screw! This Has Proven To Work Awesome For A Long Time Now. The Weight Of The Head Will Get Rid Of It'S Own Backlash. You Can'T Go Ass Wild And Make A 10Mm Cut Into Steel Like A Fool. But If You Set It For 75Mm/Sec Feed It Will Plunge Cut And Drill And Mill With No Issues. I Currently Use A 540Mm/Min Feed On X And Y With A 75-120Mm/Min Feed And Can Cut Steel And Aluminum At A Depth Of 3Mm Aluminum And 1.5Mm Of Steel With Little To No Error. I Will Repeat This Is A Mini-Mill! Not A 4.2 Million Dollar Cabinet Mill! Regardless No Mini-Mill Can Do Much More Anyhow! 8T 2Mm Lead Screw! Not 8T 8Mm. 2Mm Stands For 2Mm'S Of Movement Per One Rotation Of The Screw! Everyone Has A Different Center Post. You Either Have To Print A Part To Go Inside The Top Or Like Everyone Else Cram A Hunk Of Wood Inside The Post And Screw It In Place Through Holes Now Left Open By Parts Missing! Then Screw Your Top Plate Down To It. Press A 608 Bearing Into Your Top Plate! Take Your 8T Screw And At One End Tread It With A 5/16 Tap! Finer The Tread You Have The Better The Cut Will Be Over The Top Of The 8T Treads. The 5/16 Tap Will Dig 2/3 The Depth Of Your Screws Treads. Make The Treads About 15Mm Long. Screw A Nut On Tight! Places Your 120 Tooth Gear On Top! Place The Locking Washer Directly On The Gear! Then Fully Tighten Down Your Second 5/16 Nut! Nothing Will Move At This Point And You Don'T Have To Worry About It Untreading! Place The Gear And 8T Lead Screw In Your 608 Bearings. Put Your Nema 23 Motor On The Motor Plate! Put A 200-270 Tooth Gt2 Belt On! 250Tooth Should Be Dead Center Of The Plate Get It Around Correct Placing! Line Up The Holes On The Top Plate And Motor Plate And Put In Your 4M Bolts And Nuts! Your Lead Screw Should Now Be Down The Center Of Where Your Old Gear Rail Was! Take Your Nut Block! Either Use A Small Drill And Then Some Self-Tapping Screws To Hold It In Place Or Drill Your Holes And Tap Them For Machine Screws! You Will Need To Trim Your Nut! Take Your Nut And Place It In The Nut Holder. On Each Side Of The Nut Holder Where It Sticks Out Marker It. From That Left And Right Mark File Or Grind Off The Section That Sticks Out! Please Note! The Nuts Treads Will Be On Edge! Do Not Cut Into Them! Those Can Be Left Alone! You Only Need To Remove The Parts On The Left And Right Of The Nut Cause They Will Rub On The Machines Colum.
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