Hot Shoe Speedlight Mount (remixed mic mount)

Description

Updated Schematic, Very Simple! So I Have Always Wanted To 3D Print Something For My Nikon Ever Since I Got It. With A 3D Printer And A Love For Photography I Knew I Had To Do Something Awesome! I Have A Dinky Little Micro Printer Though, So Printing Big Stuff Was Out.... When I Saw The Challenge And The Source Material I Was Inspired To Design. I Don'T Have/Use A Mic But I Also Don'T Own A Speed Light. So I Decided My Build Platform Is Just Big Enough And My Self Taught Electronic Skills Are Just Good Enough To Do This. My 3D Design Work Is Always A Work In Progress Though.. So I Used The Http://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:346513 For My Inspiration. I Couldn'T Modify It But I Measured It And Used The Measurements To Sketch One Up. I Changed The Base To Include The Holes For The Hotshoe Which Are 1.5Mm In Diameter. I Got The Measurements For The Distance Between The Holes From My Own Nikon. I Added A Hole Next To The Hole Used To Lock Attachments Onto The Hotshoe, To Connect A Pin To Ground. I Used My Measurements From The Hotshoe Mic Mount. I Added Some Girth To The Bottom Of The Hotshoe Mount To Not Only Support The Light But Also House The Perf Board Which I Connected My Spring Pins (Http://Www.Ebay.Com/Sch/Sis.Html?_Nkw=100Pcs+0.99Mm+Diameter+Spherical+Tip+Spring+Testing+Probe+Pins&_Id=231026502173&&_Trksid=P2057872.M2749.L2658) To For My Electrical Connections. I Gave The Top Part Enough Internal Space To House A 9V Battery And The Electronics Along With The Trim-Potentiometers To Change The Resistance Of The Amount Of Power Going To The Rgb Leds For Color Mixing. I Would Have Done An Arduino Version But The Quickness Needed For A Flash Is Too Fast For An Arduino, Unless It Was Just For Complete A Separate Led Circuit, Which I Didn'T Think Of Until Writing This. I May Have More Iterations To Come.... The Hotshoe On Nikon Can Ground A Couple Hundred Volts I Read, So For Leds, Which Don'T Require Anything Near That, My Circuit Is Fine. I Googled A Lot Of Stuff About How The Pins Work. Basically Other Than All The Communication Pins, The Center Pin Is Connected To The Grounding Bracket When The Shutter Is Released. So Completing A Simple Circuit Would Not Be Difficult. The Mounting Hole For The Hinge Is 3.5Mm. The Prints I Made Are Rough, But Thats Due To A Cheap 3D Printer Thats On Its Way Out. The Top Part Alone For My Printer Is On Hour 23 And Is Only 80% Done. But The Files Are Sound. I Will Be Using A Hot Glue Gun To Press Leds Into Place. I Don'T Have A Light Reflector But I'M Sure One Can Be Added. The Mic Hot Shoe Could Still Very Well Be Used, But I Wanted Mine To Have A Little More Body To It As To Not Directly Expose The Wire Or Look Like A Minimalist Project. Enjoy! I'Ll Also Try Answering As Many Questions As Possible! Also: I Just Added A Schematic For The Circuit (Pdf In Thing Files) I Built To Fit Inside. I Did My Best To Label Anything. All Of The Parts Can Be Ordered Cheaply Online.

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