XYZ Davinci 1.0 DropIn Hotend Replacement E3DV6 v3.0 hidden clamp nuts for flush fan shroud
Description
Required Extra Pieces: 2 X 12Mm M3 Screws 2X 16Mm - 25Mm Screws 4 X M3 Regular Nuts (Nylons Will Not Fit) 1 X Clamp 1 X Fan Shroud The Fan Shroud And Clamp Can Be Downloaded From The Original Designer. Here: [Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:1328848](Http://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:1328848) This Is Not The Best Fan Shroud For This As It Does Not Completely Cool The Hotend Body. I Will Design A New Fan As Well As A Print Material Cooler. This Will Require Running A Seperate 12V Wire To The E3D Cooler To Be Always On. If There Is An Option To Have To Fans On The Board Then I Recommend Utilizing That. In General I Keep The E3D Fan On 24/7 And Have A Seperate Fan For Cooling The Material While Printing. Print Using Petg Or Abs. I Have Provided Small Supports For The Overhangs At The End. If Overhangs Fail, I Recommend Printing At Different Speeds. You Will Need To Thread The Holes With A 3Mm Theading Bit. The Previous Drop In Replacement Case Did Not Allow For Flush Mounting Of Fan Shroud Without Using Glue (As Noted By Its Original Creator). Also This Design Allows You To Secure The Clamp By Allowing M3 Nuts To Be Placed In Between The Fan Shroud And The Drop In Replacement. These M3 Nuts Allow For Secure Clamping Of The E3D Hot End Using M3 Screws And M3 Nuts Hidden Behind The Fan Shroud While Still Allowing For Flush Mounting Of The Fan Shroud To The Drop In Case. I Have Also Dropped The Hotend About 12Mm Lower As It Would Hit The Extruder In The Davinci 1.0, As Well As Cut Off A 45 Degree Angle From The Bottom As Well As Remove Material So That It Can Easily Be Dropped In. You Will Need To Reuse Some Of The Wiring From The Original Hotend So That It Can Connect To The Original Board And Wires. Remember To Also Update The Temperature Resistor In The Firmware To Match The One Provided By E3D.
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