Generic Wades Extruder - depreciated
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_____ <B>Depreciated: The Motors Can'T Cope With The Higher Speeds Required For Appropriate Retractions<B> I Uploaded Two Pictures Of The More Recent Setup Where I Reduced The Length Of The Teflon Tubes For Less Filament Pushing Resistance. In This Setup The Extruder Motors Are Suspended Underneath The Top Platform, Just Outside The Collision Range Of A Homed Extruder And Part Cooling Fan (Https://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:2684486). Interested In This Printer And It'S Capabilities? Have Also A Look To Https://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Groups/Geeetech-Rostock-301/Forums/General/Topic:26474 _____ Original Text: You Can Use This Design To Attempt Cranking The Torque Of Any Extruder That Is Connected With 4 M3 Bolt And Nuts In Square Configuration 31Mm. You Can Reuse All Parts You Already Have And Insert This "Gearbox" Inbetween. You'Ll Need Some Additional M3 Bolts And Nuts And An Axel/Nail Of 5Mm. For Me This Improved Greatly On Skipped Steps. Later I Improved Further With Cranking Vref To 1V2 (0V6 In Manual) - See The Benchy Before And After. The Gear Ratio Is 1:3. As A Result After Installing You Need To Multiply Your Esteps/Mm X3 And Reverse Your Extruder Motor Direction (E.G. Menu - Control - Motion + Store) In Order To Lock The Gears In Place You'Ll Need To Flatten The Nail On The Positions Of The Screws Through The Gearshafts. I Did That With A Dremel/Multigrinder. Other Things You Need To Consider When You Find This An Interesting Thing: - Increase The Vrefs For Your Stepper Drivers (Don'T Worry To Go Double The Value, Check Temperature Of Drivers And Motors To Ensure Yourself That You Don'T Overload Your Equipment - Just With Your Finger Will Do The Trick) - Don'T Block Your Nozzle Or Bowden Tubes On The Geeetech Rostock 301: Always Have 3 Filaments Loaded - Push Some Filament Through Before And Surely After Each Print - Incorporate It In Your Start/Stop Scripts If You Can 29/Apr/2017: Added New Basic Gear Pair With Less Teeth. After 3 Months My Small Gears Wear Slowly Out So I Decided To Make Something That At Least Looks More Robust. Not Yet Tested Per Today. No Hearingbone Selfcentering Thing This Time, Again In Attempt To Reduce Detail On The Gears And Gain Robustness. May/2017: Spray Some Wd40 On All Moving/Turning Parts! No Squeeking Noises Anymore, No Melting Plastics And No More Skipped Steps At All! Dec/2017 - 1: Added Baseplate2: A Version With Holes Such That One Can Tighten The Bolt On The Big Gear Without Having To Take The Whole Thing Apart (Yep, I Had It Loose At Some Point) Dec/2017 - 2: Added Extruder_Simplegear_Driver_Noscrollingonaxis: A Version With Non Circular Axis Hole. This Requires To Take Of 1Mm Of Material Of Your Extruder Axis Such That The Gear Can Be Put On. I Didn'T Figure Out A Way To Do Something Similar For The Big Gear Though. Mar/2019: I Took These Away From My Printer... As I Realised That The Stepper Motor I Have Mounted This On, Isn'T Capable Of Reaching The Required Speed! It Starts To Skip Steps/Shake/Make 'Brrr'-Noises As The Motor Can'T Keep Up With The Steps It Gets Fed Per Second (After All, The Motor Has To Reotate 3Times As Fast As In Orginal Setup). Maybe For Your Motor It Works Fine, But I'M Giving It Another Try Without This Wades Setup (Although I Could Return To A Wades (X2) Thing If I Can'T Get It To Work As I Want... -- Over The Years 'Ve Already Shortened My Bowden Tubes A Lot, So Less Friction And Power Loss There... Let'S See! Anyhow: This Design Is Still Usable, But The Speedlimitation Never Really Occured To Me As A Constraint Until I Started Pushing For More Retraction Speed...
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