Solder Fume Extractor (Minimalistic)

Description

Description: Lead Solder Produces Harmful Fumes. Lead-Free Solder Contains A Core That Produces Arguably More Harmful Fumes. Choose Your Poison. How About Less Poison? There Are Other Solder Fume Extractors Out There, But I Wanted Something Minimalistic. This Extractor Stands Up Stable, Covers The Soldering Area, Stands On Any Side, And Prints Easily. I Printed The Fan Cover In About 1.2Hrs, The Back Plate In About 1.4 Hours, And The Front Box In About 2.1 Hours. I Printed This At 0.3 Resolution, 60% Infill, And 60 Mm/S Speed. Zeebly'S Design Works With A Helping Hands. I Was Not Able To Get This To Work With The Helping Hands That I Have, So I Re-Designed This. I Wanted Something Simple That Is Easily Printed (I Believe In Kiss, Keep It Simple Stupid. It'S My Mantra). So, I Added A Flat Back Cover That Allows The Fan To Sit Level. I Re-Designed The Box Area So That Things Overlapped To Form A Square. I Removed The Helping Hands Attachment. Now, The Unit Can Sit Flat On Any Surface Thus Removing The Need For Anything Extra. Parts: 1X 120Mm Computer Fan (I Used A Coolmaster 12Vdc, 0.16A Case Fan) 1X Ac To 12Vdc Wall Wart Adapter (Must Supply > .2A For My Fan Choice) Tools And Parts To Connect Fan To Ac Adapter 4X #6 Bolt 2.5 Inches Long (M4 65Mm Should Work) 8X #6 Nut (M4 Nut) 2X #6 Nut (M4 Nut) Optional 12X #6 Washer (M4 Washer) 2X Activated Carbon Filter (I Used Corner Biz Aquarium Filters From Amazon, 1 Package) Https://Www.Amazon.Com/Gp/Product/B06Xsh898Q/Ref=Oh_Aui_Search_Detailpage?Ie=Utf8&Psc=1 Instructions (See Pictures): 1. Print One Each Of The Stl Files (Fan Cover Flat, Back Plate With One Wall, Front Plate With Three Walls). 2. Take Each Of The Four Bolts And Put A Washer On It. 3. Take The Fan Cover, Choose The Best Side, And Slide The Bolts In So The Best Side Faces Towards The Bolt Head. Orienting The Screws In This Way Allows For Easy Filter Replacement Without Taking Apart The Entire Unit. 4. Figure Out The Fan Orientation. The Front-Back Arrow On The Fan Should Point Towards The Fan Cover (See Important Image). This Is Important! It Is Important The Extractor Pulls Fumes Away. Blowing Air Towards The Soldering Area Increase Splash Danger. Also, It Cools The Solding Area, And It Blows The Fumes Directly At You. 5. Slide The Fan Onto The Bolts Using The Orientation From Above. 6. Slide The Back Plate Over The Fan With The One Wall Facing Away From The Fan. It Doesn'T Matter Which Side The Wall Faces As The Unit Can Rest On Any Side When Completed. 7. Slide A Washer Onto Each Bolt, And Then A Nut. Tighten This Down Now. This Keeps The Unit From Falling Apart When Replacing The Filter, And Keeps The Fan Tight Against The Chassis. 8. (Optional) Screw A Nut Down The Two Bolts Next To The One Wall Until The Top Of The Nut Is Level With The Top Of The One Wall. This Prevents Over-Tightening Of The Front Plate In The Final Step. 9. The Two Foam Filters Do Not Need Their Sides Trimmed - They Will Squish In. I Did Find It Easier To Take Off About 0.5 Inches (12Mm) From The Point Of Each Corner (Thus Cutting Off A Triangle). This Allows The Filters To Slide Past The Screws Easier. If You'Re A Squisher, You Can Try Squishing. Once A Squisher, Always A Squisher, And Nothing Wrong With That! 10. Go Ahead And Squish The Filters Into The Front Plate. 11. Now Squish The Front Plate Onto The Back Plate With The Filters Facing Towards The Fan And The Missing Wall On The Front Plate Oriented Toward The One Wall On The Back Plate. Squish And Jiggle Around To Line Up The Screws. This Sounds Complicated, But It'S Much Easier In Practice. 12. Slide A Washer Onto Each Bolt. 13. Important! Do Not Over-Tighten (Optional Helps With This)! Add And Tighten A Nut To Each Bolt, Carefully. Printing: I Printed Each Part With A Brim. A Raft Would Also Work, But I Decided To Use A Brim. Good Old Brim, Nothing Beats That. Except A Raft. Thanks: Thanks To Zeebly For The Design!

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