Wanhao i3 Y bar adjusters

Description

These Will Allow You To Adjust The Y Axis Bars On A Wanhao I3 V2.1. The Wanhao I3 As Stock Does Allow You To Adjust The Y Bars To A Small Degree, This Kit Is Intended To Offer Much More Adjustment Potential. ![Fini] [Fini]:Https://I.Imgur.Com/Pcqxv6S.Jpg # Bits Required For A Set Of 4 Adjusters : - 8 X 30Mm M3 Bolts, It Depends How Much Adjustment You Require, Down To ~25Mm M3 Will Probably Be Ok - 8 X 22Mm M3 Bolts Or Thereabouts, Probably Anything Up To ~30Mm Is Probably Ok - 4 X 20Mm M3 Bolts, Bigger Is Ok - 12 X Nylon M3 Nuts - 8 X M3 Square Nuts Obviously If You Only Need One Adjuster, Divide The Above By 4. To Be Honest You Could Probably Get Away With Just Using 20 X 25Mm M3 Bolts For The Above And It Would Be Fine. Parts For One Adjuster Shown Here, The Head Types Don'T Matter : ![Parts] [Parts]:Https://I.Imgur.Com/Nvi8Fq9.Png # Printing Both Main.Stl And Lock.Stl Should Be Printed As Orientated In The Provided Stl Files. Assuming 0.2Mm Layer Height.... ### Main.Stl - 30% Infill - 5 Perimeter Walls To Strengthen The Bolt Holes ### Lock.Stl - 30% Infill - 25 Bottom Layers, This Is To Strengthen The Lock "Arch", The Lock Height Had To Be Kept To A Minimum To Avoid Impeding The Carriage Plate - 5 Perimeter Walls # Instructions Assuming You'Re Printing One For Each Corner. - Print 4 X Main.Stl And 4 X Lock.Stl - Once Printed Check Main/Lock Parts Fit Together Well, Smooth Off Any Rough Bits, Maybe Run A 3Mm Drill Through The Holes To Remove Any Stray Plastic - Take A Main.Stl Piece, Put An M3 Nylon Nut Into The Centre Hole, It Should Easily Drop In When The Nut Is Orientated Correctly - Insert The 20Mm Bolt Through The Bottom Centre Hole And Tighten Through The Nylon Nut - Once The End Of The Bolt Is Flush With The Buttom Of The "U", Give It Another Few Turns, This Is To Account For "Give" In The Pla Once Tightened. Apply The Same Number Of Turns To Each Of The 4 Pieces So They'Re All Roughly Level When Added To Your Printer. ![Imagea] [Imagea]:Https://I.Imgur.Com/Wpgoznh.Jpg - Attach Each Main.Stl To Your Printer Frame. The Two 22Mm Bolts Go Through The Main Body And Are Tightened Using M3 Nylon Nuts (Nb The Image Below Is Showing 30Mm Bolts, 22Mm Bolts Fit Much Better!) While Tightening These Nuts It'S Worth Making Sure The Main.Stl Pieces Are Pushed Downwards As Much As Possible Since The I3'S Bolt Holes Have A Small Bit Of Leeway. By Pushing Down You Ensure Each Main.Stl Is Consistently "Bottomed" ![Imageb] [Imageb]:Https://I.Imgur.Com/0Nvk7Gj.Jpg - Drop The Y Axis Bars Back In (Don'T Forget To Add The Bearings/Mounts Back Onto The Bars!) From Here Your Y Bars Should Be Resting Lightly On The Bolt Heads. You Can Adjust The Bottom Bolt To Raise/Lower Each Y Bar End As Required. Figuring Out How It'S Level I'Ll Leave As An Exercise For The Reader. Levelling Can Be A Challenge. :( I Used A Tacklife Mdp02 Advanced Digital Angle Gauge Level To Assist With This If You'Re Happy To Spend Some Money. Once You Have It Level : - Add The Lock.Stl On Top - Place A Square M3 Nut In Each Side Gap - Insert Two 30Mm Bolts In The Top Holes - Tighten Down Each Bolt Bit By It So They Tighten Evenly. You Can See How It Fits Together Here : ![Imagec] [Imagec]:Https://I.Imgur.Com/Dz0Ox4Q.Jpg Once It'S All Done Up, It'S Probably Worth Rechecking It'S Level Before Putting The Carriage Plate Back On. # Caveats Since This Effectively Adjusts The Y Bars, It Can Affect The Height Of Your Carriage Plate, This In Turn Can Mean Your Y Endstop Might Need Adjusting Vertically So The Switch Makes Contact In The Correct Place. So Before Dismantling Your Printer It Might Be Prudent To Print Out An Alternate Y Endstop Mount Just In Case. I Currently Use This One, It Wasn'T Designed To Go With The Above But In My Case I Know It Has At Least Enough Adjustment Potential Since It'S The One I'M Using. Though I Am Using A Non-Standard Carriage Plate. Ymmv! : Https://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:2525680

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