Tevo Tarantula X/Z-axis rework

Description

First Introduction Printer: Tevo Tarantula, Dual Extruder, 2X E3Dv6 Hotend And Integrated Layer Fan Problem: The Printers Frame Limits X-Travel Solution: New X-Axis, Containing Mgn12 Linear Rail Upgrade. It Keeps The Frame And The Size Itself. ____ Dual-Z-Drive Is Recommended. Maybe It'S Possible With Only One Lead Screw, Don'T Know. There Are Options To Put The Motors On Top Or To The Bottom. You Need 400Mm Linear Rods And Lm8Uu Bearings, The Lead Screw And Threaded Rod From The Stock Tarantula Should Work, It'S Same Height So Far. Easiest Way: Steppers At The Bottom, The Bracket Takes The Stepper And The Rod, On Top The Corner Bracket Stabilizes The Frame And Has The Opposite End Of The Rod, So It Cannot Move And Everything Is Square. ___ If You Want To Have The Motors On Top You Need To Put Something Between The Bottom End Of The Rods And The Base. To Guide The Rod At The Bottom And To Prevent That It Will Fall Out. You Can Use The Frame Sockets On The Left And The Right And The Small Cylinders. As A Guide You Can Use The Bottom Motor Bracket Without Motor (Or Edit The Source Cad And Remove Motor Cutouts, Make The Piece Smaller). One Of The Pros Of The Solution With Motors On Top Is The Free Space At The Bottom. It'S Possible That The Lead Screw Could Hit The Coupler Before The Nozzle Touches The Bed. The Coupler Can Be Moved Down More, But Then There Stays Less Space To Tight The Scrub Screw Against The Threaded Rod. You Can Shorten The Motor Shaft In Worst Case, Lower The Stepper Is Nearly Impossible. I'Ts Primary A Problem With Stock Y-Axis, Not With A Mgn12 Guided Bed. _____ X-Axis After Replacing The Early Version With An Enforced One That Faces Directly To The Extrusion On Two Sides The X-Axis Is Moving Fine. The Pulley On The Motor-Side Uses A M3X25 Screw. If You Have Longer You Can Use A Nut, Else The Opposite Hole Is Designed To Get Self Tapped. The Idler Side Uses M5X35 Screws And Nuts. Insert A 0.75Mm Washer Between The Pulleys And The Thin Walls And The Stock 5Mm Spacer Plus Washer On The Other Side To Center The Pulley To The Extrusion So The Belt Runs Straight. ____ If You Go With Z-Axis Motors On Top And The Setup In The 2Nd Image Below, The Challenge Is A Fixed Point For The Rod At The Bottom. Most Rods Length Is 300 Or 400 Or 500Mm. The Resulting Distance Needs To Be Negotiated With A Pin At The Bottom Or By A Attachment Between The Top Z Corner Bracket And The Rod. Maybe You Will Use The Frame Sockets On The Corners. These 2 Are Simple To Complete With The Other From Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:1458534 I Used The Same Bottom Height. Most Easiest Method Is Inverted Z-Axis With Reasonable Expenditure As I Made It. It'S Including The Bottom Stand For The Rod And Needs A Minimum Of Printed Parts.

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