E3D V6 Watercooling without groovemount
Description
A Water Cooled Heatsink For E3D Hotend. After Reading A Lot Of Informations There: Https://Well-Engineered.Net/Index.Php/En/86-Community-Water-Cooling Https://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:247599 Http://Forums.Reprap.Org/Read.Php?336,765316 Http://Www.Instructables.Com/Id/Water-Cool-Your-3D-Printer-Nozzle-The-Cheap-And-Ea/ Https://Forum.E3D-Online.Com/Threads/E3D-Water-Cooled-Mod.53/ I Remixed All These Good Ideas To Create My Own Watercooling Block. The Prototype Was Made Without A Lathe. What You Need: - A E3Dv6 Heatsink (Or A Clone…). - Some Cold Solder Joint. - A B20 Jacket ( 5 Euros On Ebay…). - A M7 Bolt (Kinda Hard To Find… In France, You’Ll Find Some In Old Hinges. - A 2,5 Drill Bit And A M3 Taper. - A Lathe (Or A Cheap Drill That You Can Destroy) - A File - Some Sand Paper - A Saw - Some Knowledge About Lathing. The Operations Are Easy: - Cut The Head Of The Bolt - Cut The Groovemount (If You Want To Use My Kind Of Mount) Phase1 - Screw The Bolt In The Heatsink - Attach The Bolt In The Drill Chuck - Attach The Drill To Your Work Bench - Turn The Part Like In A Lathe (This Is The Hardest Part. Be Careful !) Phase 2 - Check The External Diameter Of The Part (It Should Have A 20 Mm Diameter) - When The Part Is Done, Fill The 20Mm Fins With Some Cold Solder Joint (I Mean Really Fill It!, You Should Have Too Much Material But It’S Nice - Put The Part Back In The Drill And Turn It Back To 20 Mm Phase 3 - Drill The Heatsink With The Drill Jig Phase 4 - Wash The Part With Demineralized Water - Put On The B20 Jacket , Fill It With With Water And Let It Sit One Night (To Check The Sealing)
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