MyRCCar Universal Chassis with Light Top and Closed Sides (OLD)

Description

Hi Everyone!!! Here You Have What You Need To Build A Chassis Of 150 Mm Width And From 255 To 315 Mm Wheelbase For Your Rc Car. This Is One Of The Most Important Parts In The "Myrccar" Project. I Wanted To Build My Second Mostly 3D Printed Car But This Time I Wanted It To Be "Mine". As I Did Not Want To Do The Same Work Another Time For A Third Car Or A Friend'S Car, I Tryed The Design To Be As Open And Customizable As Possible So More People Could Find It Useful. As Many Of Us Can'T Print Beyound 200X200 Mm I Had To Split The Chassis, But Doing This The Same Time I Had The Oportunity To Achieve Bigger Wheelbases. So The Key Of This Design Is The Combination Of A Front And Rear Chassis Of Your Like So You Can Achieve Your Desired Wheelbase. The Front Chassis Will Accommodate The Servo, The Steering Sistem And Part Of The Battery. The Rear Chassis Will Accommodate The Motor, Part Of The Battery And Maybe Some Electronics. To Select The Correct Front And Rear Chassis You Need To Know Your Desired Wheelbase. Your Desired Wheelbase = Front Wheelbase + Rear Wheelbase. As You Can See In The Drawings, The Front Wheelbase Goes From 135 To 150, And The Rear One Goes From 120 To 165. So The Minimal Wheelbase Will Be 255 And The Maximum 315 Mm. Many Touring Or Drifting 1/10 Cars Have A Wheelbase Of 255-265. I Think Buggys Must Have Little Longer Ones, And Truggys Or Trucks Probably More Than 280 Mm. In 1/8 Scale, A 315 Mm Wheelbase Would Be The One Of A Normal Car, I Think 255X1.25 = 318,75, So Near. If There Would Be The Need To Reach 330 I Could Create The Versions Of Front Chassis From 155 To 165 Mm. The 4 Parts Conforming A Set Are In The Same .Stl File But The Are Separated 0.01 Mm So You Can "Separate Shells" In Meshmixer Or Your Slicing Software. I'M Sure It Will Help You Having Them Together Like That To Make Your Own Mods Easily :) ## ##Example Build: So, For Example, I Build A 270 Mm Wheelbase Car. I Selected Both 135 Mm Wheelbase For Front And Rear Sets. This Would Be: - Mrcc_Cha_W15_Set_Flc135.Stl - Mrcc_Cha_W15_Set_Rlc135.Stl As Is Said In The Photos, I Have 66+84 Mm = 150 Mm Max. Battery Size. I Also Printed 2 "Side Links", 2 Battery Holder Towers, The Battery Holder, And The Servo Holder. This Would Be: - 2X Mrcc_Cha_Sd_Link.Stl - 2X Mrcc_Cha_Bt_Tower.Stl - Mrcc_Cha_Bt_Holder150.Stl - Mrcc_Cha_Servo_Holder.Stl All The Holes Are For M3 Screws. They Are 2.85 Mm In Diameter For Screwing Ones And 3.2Mm For "Passing" Ones. All The Screws Can Be 16 Mm Long But You Can Use 30Mm Ones For The Central Diff. From Its Bottom (Trough The Bottom Chassis). As Probably You Saw In The Drawings, You Will Be Able To Place The Central Differential Centered Or Off-Center. If You Choose The Off-Center Position You Must Use The Extra Holes You Can Find 9.5 Mm To The Right Of The In Both The Bottom And Top Chassis Parts. This Will Allow You To Have Enough Space For A 50Mm Width Battery, Of 5000Mah Or Maybe More :) So If You Use The Off-Center Position Of The Center Differential Do The Same With The Servo Holder So There Is Enough Space For The Central Dogbone. I Have Already Done The Whole Car And It Works Great For Me! It Has Some Details In The F/R Diff And The Central Diff I Hope You Will Find Interesting :) I Will Publish The Rest Of The Car In The Next Hours/Days, Anyway This Was The Hardest Part. Please, If You Are Interested In The Project And You Would Like To Know More Join Us Or Simply Take A Look To The Related Group [Myrccar](Https://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Groups/Myrccar)

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