Nintendo Switch Case Anker PowerCore 20100+ Modification

Description

This Is A Case Modification That I Made To Keep An Anker Powercore 20100+ Battery Pack Secure In The Cheap Zip Up Clam Shell Case I Bought On Amazon. There Is A Space To Plug In And Store A Wrapped Type C Cable Like The One That Came With The Battery. If You Want To Use A Different Cable You Might Need A 90 Degree Adapter If The Wire At The End Of The Connector Cannot Bend Into The Space. You'Ll Block The Other Ports, But The Adapter Should Be Unpluggable Pretty Easily If Needed To Charge An Older Usb Device. Other Than The Battery Aspect, On The Left There Is Space For 3 Cartridges (Not Pictured Because I'M All Digital Atm). There Is A Hinged Part That The Cartridges Sit On That You Can Pivot Them Back To Kick Up The Top Corner Of The Games So You Can Get At Them Easily (I'Ll Try To Get A Picture Soon To Better Illustrate It). There Is A Little Space Above And Below As Well For Smaller Bits Or A Cleaning Cloth. There Is A Compartment Below The Battery With A Lid To Keep Stuff From Scratching The Screen. One Of The Rubber Bumpers Hold The Lid Down So The Lid Doesn'T Chatter While Moving Around With The Switch Stowed Away. You Can Fit A Few Things In There Like The Joycon Shoulder Button Attachments With Some Space To Spare. If You Were So Inclined To Do This Or If Demand Warranted, I Could Print A Tray That Fits In This Space To Store More Games In A More Orderly Manner If You'Re A Millionaire And Have More Than 3 Cartridges ;) Definitely Don'T Skimp On The Rubber Bumpers Though Because That Is What Will Ensure You Don'T Scratch Anything Up! Oh And Lastly, If You Orient Everything Like I Do With The Battery In The Bottom Half With The Plug On The Right As Seen In The Images, Then Be Sure To Support The Top Edge Of The Switch With Your Thumb, Like Opening A Laptop Lid, Whenever Opening Or Closing The Top. It Sounds Trivial, But There Is Not That Much Friction Holding The Switch In Place As You Open And Close The Case. The Though Of Someones Switch Slipping Out Of The Top While Unsupported Only To Have It Thud! I'M Sure The Bumpers Would Protect It, But Still. Parts Needed: - [Anker Powercore 20100+ ](Http://A.Co/91Nw7Ig) And The Included C - C Cable (Might Need 90 Degree Adapter If Using Other Cable) - [Switch Case Similar To This](Http://A.Co/Jdexspt), I'M Sure There Is Not Much Variation To This Type But This Is The Exact One I Used - Exacto/Box Cutter/Knife - Small Pins Or Soild 18G Wire If Needed - Drill Bit Just A Bit Larger Than Pin/Wire - 2X Rubber Bumpers (13Mm X 13Mm X 3Mm) - 1X Rubber Bumpers (13Mm X 13Mm X 6Mm) (Could Probably Just Use These If The Thinner Ones Can'T Be Obtained) Pretty Straightforward, Print File As It Is Arranged Using A Wide Enough Skirt So That All Parts Skirts Touch For Better Bed Adhesion. 3Mm Support Can Be Used In The Plug Pass Through Hole On The Right Side If You Don'T Want To Bridge It. I Used 3 Sections Of Support With A Wide Enough Gap Between That Each Section Could Be Broken Out With Less Force. The Zipper Case Will Likely Have Some Kind Of Organization Built In But You'Re Going Cut All That Out So It'S A Fresh New Canvas! I'M Currently Using The Solid Wire Hinge Option Right Now Because That Is What I Had On Hand But A Local Hardware Store Should Have Super Thin Steel Rods That Can Be Cut To Length To Use As Hinge Pins Instead Of Malleable Copper Wire. Just Drill Out Whatever Size Hole You Need To Fit The Chosen Hinge. You'Ll Insert The Pin For The Cartridge Pivot First, Then The Pins For The Door As You Put The Battery In One End And Then The Other, Lining Up The Pin With The Holes And Pressing Both Ends On. Make Sure You Pins Are Long Enough So The Lid Can'T Come Off If A Hole Is Drilled Too Deep Also. Take One Of Each Of The Bumpers And Cut Them In Half, Slimmer Ones At The Bottom Near The Zipper, Thicker Ones At The Top Near The Case Hinge. The Third Goes Just Above The Lift Cutout.

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