CTC Sensor Holder (12mm) for auto bed leveling
Description
Attention! Please Beware, That As Of March, Year 2020, I'Ve Officially Abandoned The Sailfish Firmware And Installed Marlin Firmware, That As Of Today Works Pretty Good And Better Supports The Auto-Leveling Code, Also, You Can Activate The Autoleveling With Only A Gcode Command, Making It Really Simpler. If You Want Some Help, I Can Write A Little Guide. For What It Refers The Below Code, It Only Works For The Original Sailfish (The Gcode For Starting Print/Ending). The Electrical Wiring And Anything Else Remains The Same. I Feeled It Was Time To Switch From A Fixed Z-Min Value, Given At A Fixed Time, And Having Always To Be Really Careful For Plate Level Loss. Beware, I'M Not Telling That This Will Solve The Situation, But It Will Help A Lot: - You Can Level The Buildplate Using The Sensor, If Correctly Calibrated, Without The Need To Worry Too Much; - You Can Check The Leveling Of The Plate Less Often, Thus Making The Printer More Productive (Maybe Once Every Two Months); - If You Need To Raise Or Lower The Plate, But The Plate Itself Is Leveled Already, You Can Trim With The Pot Present On The Sensor Itself, Thus Leaving You With Only A Screw To Turn Slightly Right Or Slightly Left (More On Leveling Below) - You Will Need To Put The Z Offset To A Value Less Than Zero, To Avoid Plate Touch From The Sensor, Or Unwanted Sensor Activation. The Trimmed Value Suggested Is From 0.1 To 0.2 With A Feeler. Now The Most Important Fact, This Is An Old Makerbot Clone, With Dual Extruder, Mightyboard Rev E And Sailfish Version 7.8 (My Modifications Got Inside, Since I Have An All-Metal Hot Ends, Plus Other Mods For Power And Cooler, As I Need To Print To Temperatures Up To 300°C, Even If Not Often, There Is Much More, You Can Find That At Https://Github.Com/Uoitalia/Sailfish-Mightyboardfirmware ). Remember That For Auto Leveling You Will Need An Updated Firmware, Look Here: Https://Github.Com/Uoitalia/Sailfish-Mightyboardfirmware/Releases/ (This Is Functional Even For The Atmega 1280 Boards! - Read Carefully The Description There!) The Starting Gcode Script Can Be Found In The Printer Settings, As Well As The Small Electrical Written Scheme, That Will Make This Sensor Work As It Should For Leveling: It Will Become Really Easy And Simple, When In Need Of Leveling, Pick The Control Panel Of The Printer, Raise The Z Until The Plate Touches The Hotend, Now Pick A Feeler And Lower The Hotends As Per Your Need (0.1 - 0.2 - 0.3, 0.2 Is Recommended, Less Is Better, But You Have To Be Careful With Z Offset, That Should Become Negative And A Lot...). After Trimming The Sensor So That It Will Switch On (There Is A Led On Top), Lower And Raise Z By 0.1 To Check That It Correctly Works, Now You Can Begin Leveling The Plate, Simply Move The Toolhead Around, And Screw Or Unscrew Until The Light Of The Sensor Turns On...This Time It Takes Really No Time To Check If The Bed Is Really Leveled! Edit On 31 May 2018: I Added A Version 2 Of The Holder, If In Need To Thighten The Screw Or If In Need Of An Inductive Sensor Type. Remember That In The Inductive Sensor Type You Must Use The Diode And Control If The Voltage Is Near To Zero In The Black Wire, Before Connecting It To The Board!
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