Prusa i3 MK3s MMU2s >126% build volume (26,5+ cm build height) + easily exchangeable extruder head!

Description

Hi! I Have Improved This Mod Considering The Exchangeable Extruder Head Including The Plug-System. It Is Now Updated. ---> The Laser Head Can Be Found Here: Https://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:4788505 ---> The Modified Parts To Fit A Mosquito Hotend Can Be Found Here: Https://Www.Thingiverse.Com/Thing:4788508 This Is A Mod Which Increases The Build Height Of The Original Prusa I3 Mk3 Based On The Appropriate Mod For The Mk2. No Real Need To Click The Link: Https://Shop.Prusa3D.Com/Forum/Improvements-Archive--F85/30-More-Build-Volume-26-Cm-Build-Height-Working-T6088.Html). Before You Read On: This Mod Is A Significant Modification Of The Original Mk3. Please Make Sure You Have Some Basic Skills In Building/Rebuilding The Mk3 And Also Considering Electronics ("Just" Soldering Or Crimping) And That You Can Modify The Firmware ("Just" Two Codelines) Or Use The One Uploaded Here - I Will Update It On Request. You Need: From This Thing: - Essential: All Printable Parts Just Like They Are Downloaded. Additional Parts Required: - Essential: 2X 8Mm Rods With 38Cm Lenght Or More, Depending On Your New Height - Essential: Cables - Optional To Make Extruder Exchangeable: 4X 6-Pin Row Of 2.54 Mm Spaced Connectors (Male+Female), A Small Test Pcb And So On To Make Your Own Connector Just Like In The Pics. However, I Suggest You Just Use A Bought Connector With Enough Lines And Use It Somewhere In Between The Cable As That Is The Safest Option (E.G. A Car Connector Or Similar). With The Essential Parts And A Bit Skills In Soldering (Lenghten The Cables) You Will Be Able To Increase The Build Height Up To 265 Mm - To The Whole Upper End Of The Frame'S Inner Side! How To Build: 1. Print All The Parts Of This Mod. 2. Take The Whole Z-Gantry, X-Gantry And The Extruder Apart. 3. Rebuild The X-Gantry With The New Parts (X-End-Idler, X-End-Motor, X-Carriage). You Need To Grind Down The Trapezoidal Nut So That It Does Not Exceed The Part But Merges To One Flat Surface On The Side (See The Photos). 4. Rebuild The Z-Gantry With The New Parts (Z-Axis-Top). 5. Rebuild The Extruder With The New Parts And The New Cable Management (Extruder-Body, Extruder-Cover, Filament-Sensor-Cover And So On, Just Like In The Pictures. Feel Free To Ask For More Details If Pics Are Not Enough, I Will Provide Them On Request). 6. Extend The Cables Reusing The Old Connectors. 7. Your Choice: Just Crimp The Cables Back Together Or Build A Connector In Between To Really Make It An Interchangeable Extruder. But Even Without Connector You Will Profit From A Very Easy Teardown When Something Is Wrong With The Extruder. 8. Update Firmware To A Max Z Height Of 265 Or Higher, Depending On Your Height (In Mm). You May Use The Hex-File I Provided, But No Guarantees It Will Work On Your Printer Properly, Especially With Other Mods Installed. 9. Literally Plug In The Extruder And Print! Advantages: - More Build Height - Change Toolheads (And Thus, Nozzles) In Seconds - Extruder Service Made Easy Disadvantages: - Slightly More Flex On The Z-Rods - More Sensible To False Alignment Of The Lead-Screws (Z-Wobble) When Being In Lower Layers (However, The Z-Rods Are Flexing The Least In Lower Layers So That Compensates It). I Included Screws To Align The X-Ends Until Everything Runs Smoothly. For More Details On How To Change Fw According To Your Custom Z-Height See This Post On Github: Https://Github.Com/Gregsaun/Prusa_I3_Bear_Upgrade/Issues/119 For More Details From The Old Mod Please See The Forum Post On Prusa Research: Https://Shop.Prusa3D.Com/Forum/User-Mods-Octoprint-Enclosures-Nozzles--F65/126-Build-Volume-26-5-Cm-Build-Height-Easily-Excha-T19412.Html

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