There is a V2 of this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4877991 (Dual) There is a V3 of this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4904677 (Halo) Ok, this is the result of a small FreeCAD session: A little ring lamp with 325mm diameter. You need a printer with around 200x200mm build plate to be able to print a quarter ring.

Key Features:

When designing this I had some key features in mind: ° simple and clean print ° avoid the led strips glue tape on the back at all cost. ° add a simple compartment for the electronics. ° wire management ° easy to print. ° no flimsy pegs to mount, which fail printing or break away later on.

Requirements:

1x 5V power supply 1x Power Connector 1x Switch 1x LED strip. (60 pixel/m or more) WARNING! You need a LED strip without a rubber dome. Just the plain flexible PCB with the LEDs and resistors soldered on. I used a 60 pixel/mm strip and ended up using 57 LEDs in total.

Printing:

You need to print a the socket, the lid and four ring pieces. One of the ring segments has an opening for the wiring. The other file marked with 3x need to be printed three times. The ring segment files have build in support. They need to be printed flat on the bed and without any support. Make sure "print thin walls" is enabled. This helps to get the build in support done with optimal print quality. Another important thing: Use a raft. Yes, rafts take a while to print and eat a lot of plastic as well, but so do the ring segments and one single fail or a warped and thereby unusable ring segment wastes even more plastic. Especially when having issues with temperatures on the outside of the print bed, a raft saves filament and not the opposite. So adding one hour per ring segment isn't that bad compared to a total fail after 3 hours of printing. Better get it done right the first time, instead of failing several times first. Bonus effect: The ring will look more or less the same on both sides, which is great.

Build process:

There will be a small wall of support in front of the LED slot. Just push along it and it will release very easy. The included images show the support removal process and how to insert the LED strip. Once done you can use small filament pieces and stuff them into the three holes. Along with a little glue you can glue the segments together. Before gluing the bottom ring openings together, slide in the LED strip into the ring section. It must be a PCB only LED strip. Strips with a defusing rubber dome cover, will not work. There is a similar opening in the ring socket. Just add a little glue and align the wire guide opening before placing the ring into the slot of the base. Slide in the switch and the power wire, connect the ESP32 and done. This is basic stuff. 5V to 5V, GND to GND and the ring light data line to pin G23 of the ESP. You can use any kind of software to drive the ring lamps LED strip. Even use an Arduino and some example code. There is an archive containing the source code included. Please check the read me file for further details. I made a video to show the build process more or less in detail. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0Ccoee1Y5A Language is German, so be warned. :D

Current Features:

° web interface ° OTA update support ° flash fs settings support ° LED color and temperature correction ° 12 effects (static, rainbow, fire place, RGB fader, ...) ° optional sound support (hour/30 min gong) (requires DFPlayer sound module) ° timed power mode: The ring lamp turns on and off at a specific hours. ° timed dimming mode: The ring lamp changes brightness at specific hours. ° timed sound mode: The ring lamp changes volume at specific times. ° Full fledged Alexa support. ° Button support for quick on/off/audio switch.

Customize:

To customize the ring you need at least FreeCAD 0.19.1 or up. The model is fully parametric and you should be able to modify stuff like the size of the opening for the switch by just tweaking the spreadsheet. Of course this also works for all other dimensions.

Update:

When building a second version I used different parts in the base. I changed the default design to use a standard toggle switch which can be found on coffee makers. For the power inlet I used a power jack adapter You find them on internet routers, USB hubs, scanners and other low power devices. I usually salvage these parts before throwing old hardware away, so I have a bunch of them. The power connector is not optimal, but looks nice, when glued into the base. As said the model is customizable, so you can use what ever you have at hand. If you want to use something different, just change the width and height values inside the spreadsheet.

Final Words:

If there are any questions feel free to write a comment. Please post a make, so people can see my model really works and I get positive feedback in the same process, too.

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