Version 2 of this [Grid for LED strips w/ clock example](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2930831) Update - 2021/11/18 Sketch v7 available. I also recommend having a look at the notes about electronics when building one of my things! https://www.instructables.com/ClockSketch-V7-Part-I/ Update - 2020/06/02 Added draft of sketch v6 which can be compiled for nodeMCU/ESP8266. As formatting/markdown here still doesn't work, please have a look at Step 11 on Instructables for details: https://www.instructables.com/id/S7ripClock-Basic-Edition/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSWppwuDyiE 29.09.2019 - Update to Sketch v5 See Sketch section for details -- Comparison old vs. v2 - More LEDs than before (18x6 vs 16x5, XT 27x6 vs 24x5) (108 vs 80 LEDs, XT 162 vs 120 LEDs) - Parts designed to use less material and print way faster - Less screws required (10-14 screws vs. > 20 screws before) - Bigger electronics case (fits stuff up to 40mm x 70mm x 15mm) - Easier to build - If used as a clock, there's now room for 24h format on the base version with 18x6 leds Pictures for size comparison are in the gallery (old grid 16x5 vs 18x6 and 24x5 vs 27x6). There's two software sketches provided, v4 is based on the [Lazy Grid Clock](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3241802) / [7 Segment Retro Clock](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3014572). So it now has the same basic functions. As electronics are the same you might want to check out the other things for additional information. Basics_v1 This one shows the basics of how to use the grid. It's a regular "horizontal zig zag" starting with data in at the bottom left corner (x/y 0,0). Sketch_v4 The clock sketch as it can be seen in the pictures. Features: - 12/24h format selectable - different color palettes/modes - ldr support (automatic brightness reduction) - settings stored to eeprom See "Sketch" section for usage details. Required parts To build the grid with 108 leds/2 modules you will need: Printed parts: - 2x GCv2_Grid_v1.STL - 2x GCv2_Grid_Base_v1.STL - 2x GCv2_Front_v1.STL - 1x GCv2_Elec_Case_v1.STL - 1x GCv2_Feet_v1.STL - 2x GCv2_Cable-Cover_v1.STL Electronics / Other: - 1x Arduino (Nano or Pro Mini, case fits both) (Note: Pro Mini 5V, not 3.3V. ATmega328P, 168P only have 1k SRAM) - 108x WS2812(B) LEDs (60 leds/m) - 1x resistor (300-500 ohms, I'm using 330) - 1x RTC module (DS3231) - 2x push buttons (6mm x 6mm) - 1 USB wire to connect the clock/grid later to a power source (Because of voltage drop I don't recommend wires longer than 2m - 3m max.) - 10x M3 screws, length anywhere between 7mm - 11mm (I've used m3x10 completely) - Diffusive material (copy paper, inkjet film, whatever. Size is 155mm x 107mm per front part) If you'd like to build the 162 leds/3 modules version from the pictures, you'll need additionally: Printed parts: - 1x GCv2_Grid_v1.STL - 1x GCv2_Grid_Base_v1.STL - 1x GCv2_Front_XT_v1.STL - 1x GCv2_XT-Connector_v1.STL Electronics / Other: - 54x WS2812(B) LEDs (60 leds/m) - 4x M3 screws, length anywhere between 7mm - 11mm Other requirements: - Working Arduino IDE including the used libraries - Basic knowledge of what you're doing... Notes: Strip cutouts in the base parts are 12.25mm wide. So other strips like APA102 should be usable as long as strip thickness between leds is <= 1mm. IP67/IP65 coated/tubed strips won't work, they're 3mm-4mm thick. This thing is meant for people who played around a bit with a few WS2812 leds to gather some experience and who are now looking for an easy way to get a working grid. If you're totally new to this you might want to take a look at Adafruits Uberguide or other similar stuff (FastLED user groups) first. Because of that I won't go into details about power usage/selecting the right wire gauges and so on. If you're going to use the grid for one of your own projects you should know about these things (like about different voltage levels on a esp8266 and the complications that may arise from this). Or why you should keep the power wire short (voltage drop). The provided sketch is limited to 5V/750mA. Regarding of the diffusive material you chose you might want to raise this. Paper blocks way more light than inkjet film for example. Using AWG24/AWG22 (0.21mm² - 0.33mm²) personally I wouldn't go over 2A - 3A and consider adding one or two capacitors to the strip/arduino.

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