WARNINGS:

Please be careful due to HIGH VOLTAGE (thousands of volts!) on the plates of ozone generator during operation!!! It could give you an electric shock or bring you to death!
Please be careful due to poison properties of ozone! Turn power off and leave the room immediately if you smell ozone! Do not breath in ozone under any circumstances!!!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I decided to prepare a DIY ozone generator to fight viruses, fungus and other smelly things that could live in your cars, a specially in AC pipes. This is quite compact and portable version. It is prepared to work with electronic timer (type JZ-801):

and typical ozone generator (buy 12V/10g version):

available on Ebay, Aliexpress, Banggood, Amazon, Allegro, etc. Generators are built in couple of types of power supply (12V - for cars, 240V/50Hz, 110V/60Hz... etc - for households) and effectiveness (from 1 to 3 ozone generating plates). For car's 12V installation you shouldn't exceed 2 plates (about 70W of power) due to current limitations in car's lighter sockets. You will also need the 16mm pushbutton:

and 120mmx120mm 12V computer fan:

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How to connect everything together?

I tried to show that on the picture:

It's strongly recommended to use soldering iron to connect wires together due to 5-6A current passing through these connections. Please use wires with conductors of at least 1.5mm2 (15 AWG)! 12V lighter plug must be equipped with 10A fuse! _____________________________

Obligatory modifications of the parts:

Mechanical mods:
I looked at the ozone generator carefully and in my opinion the way of mounting it to the base is not the best. So I removed some parts of plastic case using side cutters and drill 4 holes (with 135mm x 45mm spacing) instead:

Design of the housing base was prepared to fit these holes.
Electrical mods:
The display of timer have to be raised about 16mm. This is necessary to fit the panel window. Original display seats to low, directly on the board. So you have to desolder display from the board, prepare and solder to its pins some thin 20mm long wires (Ethernet cable is good source of that kind of wires), then fit it to the panel window and then fit the board in panel and solder wires to the original pads on the board:

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And now... The Printing :)

Base, handle and cover are really simple to print. Just in the case of cover you have to use supports under the outer edge. Use 3-4 perimeters. Some problems may occur during the panel printing, a specially if you didn't try before to print first layer with different colours. I attached 4 files to allow to print the panel in one of 2 ways: a) You may use separate STLs, adjust the exact position of them in slicer and generate 3 separate gcodes for icons, main body of panel and window of display. b) You may also start with complete_panel.stl. Open it in your slicer and divide to separate parts or models. It should ensure that the separated models are accurately positioned on the table. Then delete panel main body as well as window of display. Leave icons only. Generate gcode. Then undo delete. Leave only window and generate gcode. Again undo delete and leave this time main body of panel only. Generate gcode. So you should get 3 gcode files: body of panel, icons and window of display. As a first print icons (pick your filament colour) and leave them on the table of printer. Then print the window (you should pick some red transparent filament) and then print panel main body. As a result you should get complete panel with icons and window integrated. If it's too difficult you may print panel main body only and colorize icons by hand. In the end you should get something like this:

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Assembly:

First build the panel and make all of the electrical connections between timer and push button. My button was backlighted so I took additional power from NO timer output to make it work: